Month: February 2021
Gabriela Hearst in her latest show of hers for her namesake label, and the last before debuting with her night job as Chloé’s new creative director in Paris, Hearst redid the ideas of the 11th century philosopher and mystic, Saint Hildegard of Bingen. The result was a classy and composed collection that managed to be contemporary and cool, unveiled on Tuesday night in New York. Hearst smartly juxtaposed the clothes in a suitably gritty show video, shot in a light-filled riverside warehouse with corrugated iron walls underneath the Williamsburg Bridge, in a lush piece of direction by Alexandre de Betak.
Each look expressed a new maturity and conviction in Hearst’s work, which Hildegard – an abbess who corresponded with popes and emperors – would surely have appreciated.
Opening with flowing cloaks; long knitted dresses and some excellent trench coats – finished with shoulder knots or hoods. For day, showing stylish Swiss lace frocks; Aran sweater cocktail dresses or precise leather macramé looks worn over polo necks. For evening, flowing satin dresses over flared white pants or snazzy thick-ribbed knit cocktails all looked great.
“St. Hildegard was a composer, poet, philosopher, mystic, linguist, botanist, and medical theorist. If she were born a man we would all know her name as we know Leonardo da Vinci’s. Her visions that started at an early age began her spiritual journey that can only be made with true passion. She saw that the answer was in the Green Power of Nature,” argued Hearst in her program notes.
After seeing her 12-tear-old daughter Mia placing flowers in her art book, and then carefully replicating them, Hearst used these as prints – “knitted and crocheted with two non-for-profit women empowering co-ops we work with in Uruguay and Bolivia.” The results were some great woolen ensembles and charming skirts and tanks.
Mia’s prints were also the basis for the patterns in the Swiss lace and leather macramé looks, climaxing with classy town coats, whose lower halves morphed into lace. Cool ethnic blanket looks, from patchwork ponchos to country weekend coats referenced Hearst’s youth in Uruguay, adding high color to the collection.
A true polyglot, Hildegard wrote three volumes of theology; two volumes on natural medicines and cures; invented her own language and composed sacred monophony – there are more surviving chants by her than any composer from the Middle Ages.
The designer’s soundtrack was an original composition too. By Uruguayan artist Juan Campodonico, adding a quick step beat to the show video, wihich ended with Hildegard Hearst taking an extended tour down the massive warehouse.
Sauntering out through the battered doors onto the East River, in a great symbolic exit, as she sets off on the next stage of her career – conquering Paris.
ANNA SUI INTERPRETS WITH POP THE DESIRE FOR RENAISSANCE AND LIGHTNESS TO GET OUT OF THIS MOMENT WITH JOY
Anna Sui relives the legendary 60s with the carefree atmosphere and the music of flower children, of a cultural and musical renaissance that gave birth to the rebirth of humanity in those years. Even today the message is clear, there is a desire to rediscover the emotion of life, freedom and lightheartedness.
Carefully chosen pop-paisley dresses and great picnic dresses worn with matching printed tights. All with a touch of whimsy and extravagance that he associates with Sui – from the faux fur coat with a big cat print and hat paired with bright psychedelic Navajo coats.
The cast dances in front of a fabulous backdrop of circus fair stars and planets, painted by Sarah Oliphant, to the tune of George Harrison’s sitar-infused Flower Power pop soundtrack.
When it gets dark, Sui’s mermaids hit nightclubs in micro-sequined trouser suits or flirty lace dresses, trimmed with river gambler laces.
“As we wait” on pause “for the new world to emerge from this pandemic, my mind is a whirlwind of vibrant worldviews right in front of us – I can’t stop thinking about that” black and white in color ” Moment. The limbo we live in will become psychedelic, exuberant with colors and patterns: it will be Phantasmadelic! “Enthused Sui in his notes on the program.
Aided by an excellent cast of a quintet of young veterans – Hanne Gaby Odiele, Lara Park, Issa Lish, Dilone and the perfectly sulky Cristina Piccone – all perfectly composed by Pat McGrath.
Sui easily had one of the best collections and videos in last season’s largely virtual New York fashion season in September. She just had another one in the current fashion week.