From its newly balanced schedule to creative director Daniel Lee’s next trendsetting show for Bottega Veneta, this is Vogue’s guide to MFW spring/summer 2020. Image credits: Getty Images/Shutterstock.
Hot on the heels of New York’s schedule shake-up and London’s public-facing shows, Milan Fashion Week spring/summer 2020 (September 17 to 23) is making a case for parity, sharing out the most sought-after schedule slots among the designers in favour of a more balanced calendar.
“A strong spirit of sharing and synergy has drawn up a more balanced calendar to give due weight to all of the fashion weekdays and thereby benefit the entire system and the city of Milan,” noted a statement from Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana (CNMI) in July. The decision came after a roundtable discussion involving high-profile brands such as Gucci (above), Fendi, Max Mara, Giorgio Armani, Prada, Marni, Salvatore Ferragamo and Bottega Veneta.
Speaking of Bottega Veneta, ever since creative director Daniel Lee’s (above) appointment in July 2018, there has been a non-stop buzz surrounding the luxury Italian brand and its plans for MFW spring/summer 2020; Lee’s show is expected to be the biggest talking point of the week.
The British designer, who graduated from Central Saint Martins and previously held roles at Maison Margiela, Balenciaga and Donna Karan before joining Céline, said at the time of joining: “Maintaining the ingrained codes of the house, craftsmanship, quality and sophistication, I look forward to evolving what has gone before, while contributing a new perspective and modernity.”
Lee’s Bottega Veneta spring/summer 2020 show will undoubtedly embody the celebratory tone expected from MFW this season; the schedule is packed full of anniversaries and parties, as a slew of new names are welcomed and a spotlight is shone on sustainability and inclusivity.
Versace will be one of the most sought-after shows of MFW spring/summer 2020 (8pm, September 20) after Capri Holdings completed its highly publicised merger and bought the fashion house for US$2.1 billion in 2018.
Other can’t-miss shows include Massimo Giorgetti’s MSGM (above), celebrating its 10th year (11:30am, September 21), Salvatore Ferragamo (9:30am, September 21) and Jil Sander (8pm, September 18).
All eyes, however, will be on Bottega Veneta (6:30pm, September 19), as former creative director Tomas Maier’s successor Daniel Lee delivers his hotly-anticipated spring/summer 2020 collection. So far, Lee has wowed the fashion world with his modern spin on the Italian heritage brand with its sell-out shoes and accessories. The question is: will his sophomore collection live up to expectations?
Schedule reshuffle In the new egalitarian spirit of MFW, Prada (4pm, September 18) and Gucci (4pm, September 22) will have shared custody of the opening and closing slots, with Giorgio Armani as Saturday’s main (4pm, September 21). In the name of maintaining balance and harmony, Gucci will open and Giorgio Armani will close in the following season. Notably missing from the schedule is Roberto Cavalli. Paul Surridge departed in March, saying: “I have given much consideration to this decision and reached the conclusion that the mission I have signed on has changed and enters a new direction with a new perspective.” In July, Dubai-based property developer Damac had its bid to buy the brand approved – but the brand’s next chapter remains a mystery. Philipp Plein has put a pause on his over-the-top shows, opting instead for an in-store event, while this season will be Fendi’s (above) first womenswear collection without Karl Lagerfeld’s input (12:30pm, September 19). The legendary designer passed away days before the February show.
A handful of new names are making their MFW debuts this season, including MRZ by Simona Marziali (5:30pm, September 19); Antwerp Royal Academy of Fine Arts master graduate Shuting Qiu (11:30, September 22) and Copenhagen Fashion Week darling Nynne Kunde (5:30pm, September 21).
Making the move from New York is German brand Boss as it looks to strengthen its ties in the European markets (10:30am, September 22). Drome by Marianna Rosati (above) joins from Paris Fashion Week (9:30am, September 22). London’s Peter Pilotto is decamping to Milan also — the first time since the brand’s inception in 2007 — swapping London’s cocktail clubs for the historic Teatro Manzoni (12:30pm, September 18).
Notable celebrations Vogue Italia’s fashion-talent scouting project ‘Vogue Talents’ is celebrating its 10th year. The multimedia digital platform has unearthed talented fashion creatives from across the world and the initiative is now synonymous with representing social trends from the past decade: sustainability, inclusivity in beauty, gender fluidity and feminism, to name a few.
“It’s borderless and barrier-free,” says Sara Sozzani Maino, head of Vogue Talents and deputy editor-in-chief of special fashion projects at Vogue Italia. “It searches the world because there’s talent everywhere. Our mission is to act responsibly and set an example that the world needs to change.” Vogue Italia will mark the milestone with a retrospective exhibition on September 20 to 21, held at the Palazzo Cusani, Brera.
Meanwhile, Vogue Japan is celebrating its 20th birthday with a Kawaii-themed party in partnership with Bulgari, hosted by creative director-at-large Anna Dello Russo (above) and editor-in-chief Mitsuko Watanabe on September 18.
And rounding off proceedings with a focus on sustainability is the third edition of the Green Carpet Fashion Awards, which will close the week at La Scala Theater on September 22 and will be hosted by Livia Firth, creative director of Eco-Age, and Carlo Capasa, chairman of CNMI.
Victoria Beckham debuted her Spring 2020 collection during London Fashion Week; the new lineup showed a softer, more romantic side of the designer, who often sticks to stricter tailoring. As per usual, the whole Beckham clan was there in the front row to cheer her on, including husband David Beckham, along with their four children Brooklyn, Romeo, Cruz, and Harper. Post-show, the Beckhams then headed to a private dinner at Harry’s Bar to celebrate the designer, where Victoria and David pulled off an extremely chic his-and-hers suiting moment.
Walking into the party hand-in-hand, the Beckham’s proved they’re London’s hottest couple this week by coordinating their evening suits. Victoria chose an oversized blazer in polka dots, pairing it with a ruffled purple blouse—her new collection was heavy on the ruffles—and high-waisted burgundy trousers; finally adding a pair of discreet stiletto sandals gave the outfit a more elevated, going-out feel. David, meanwhile, chose a pale blue Dior double-breasted suit, designed by the couple’s close friend Kim Jones, and gave it a more casual finish with a simple white T-shirt and crisp high-top sneakers. Their complementary looks were polished and dressed-up, but undeniably effortless, too. That’s the Beckham style signature, after all.
“I am all about championing this new era of designers becoming the new rock stars,” wrote Virgil Abloh on the blog The Brilliance in 2007. Fast-forward a decade and Abloh is exactly that. The American designer has risen from a Chicago kid obsessed with fashion, art, design, and culture to the artistic director of Louis Vuitton’s menswear operation.
As Abloh prepares to take the reins at one of fashion’s most iconic brands, we’re looking back on his career trajectory, from onetime Fendi intern to Kanye West collaborator to Off-White founder and collaborator nonpareil.
Abloh was born on September 30 outside of Chicago. He and his sister are raised in nearby Rockford, by Ghanaian immigrant parents. Abloh attends the Boylan Catholic High School—official colors green and white—and graduates in 1998. His mother is a seamstress and teaches him the tricks of her trade.
Abloh completes his undergraduate degree in civil engineering at the University of Wisconsin–Madison. (In 2015, he would return to design commemorative tees for the university.) Rumor has it that on the day of his graduation, he skips his final critique to take a meeting with Kanye West’s then-manager John Monopoly. West and Abloh begin officially working together soon after.
Abloh completes his master’s degree in architecture from the Illinois Institute of Technology. During his time at IIT, a Rem Koolhaas building is completed, which Abloh says, “piqued my interest and opened my gateway into fashion.”
Abloh and West become interns at Fendi in Rome. Louis Vuitton CEO Michael Burke recently told The New York Times, “I was really impressed with how [Abloh and West] brought a whole new vibe to the studio and were disruptive in the best way. Virgil could create a metaphor and a new vocabulary to describe something as old-school as Fendi. I have been following his career ever since.”
Abloh and West, along with a crew of famous friends, make the rounds at Paris Fashion Week, turning heads in the process. They’re photographed by Tommy Ton for Style.com outside of the Comme des Garçons show in what becomes a widely circulated pic. Abloh tells W magazine, “We were a generation that was interested in fashion and weren’t supposed to be there. We saw this as our chance to participate and make current culture. In a lot of ways, it felt like we were bringing more excitement than the industry was.”
Abloh officially assumes the role of creative director at Donda, West’s creative agency.
Abloh art directs the album Watch the Throne by Jay-Z and West, an achievement that earns him a Grammy nomination. The album cover is designed by Riccardo Tisci, then the creative director of Givenchy, a role Abloh was rumored to be up for after Tisci’s departure in 2017.
Abloh launches his first brand, Pyrex Vision, in New York. He purchased deadstock Ralph Lauren flannel shirts for $40 each, and screen printed them with the word Pyrex and the number 23, an homage to his childhood hero, Michael Jordan. They sell for $550 each.
Abloh shutters Pyrex and founds Off-White, a multi-platform creative endeavor based in Milan. Its main medium is fashion. At Off-White, he combines ideas of streetwear, luxury, art, music, and travel, defining the brand simply as, “the gray area between black and white as the color Off-White.” From the get-go, hovering quotation marks become Abloh’s signature.
Abloh launches womenswear for Off-White and begins showing his men’s and women’s collections during Paris Fashion Week.
Abloh’s womenswear operation gains steam when Beyoncé wears a palm-print sweatshirt with the word Nebraska on it, an homage to Raf Simons’s Fall 2002 Virginia Creepers collection, in Nicki Minaj’s video for “Feeling Myself.” That same year, Off-White is named a finalist for the LVMH Prize. He loses the grand prize and special prize to Marques’Almeida and Jacquemus, respectively.
Abloh opens his first concept store in the Aoyama area of Tokyo. The store features a watercooler with Off-White branded cups that visitors take for free and resell on the secondary market.
Abloh debuts his Grey Area furniture collection in Milan, his first furniture venture under the Off-White brand. It features iron grid chairs, benches, and tables with leather cushions and Carrara marble tops.
Even with the announcement of a collaborative exhibition with Takashi Murakami opening at Gagosian; the release of his first song; the opening of his New York store; the British Fashion Award for Urban Luxe Brand; and collaborations with Warby Parker, Jacob the Jeweler, and Jimmy Choo, the biggest news for Abloh in 2017 is The Ten, his sneaker partnership with Nike. Abloh re-creates 10 of Nike’s iconic silhouettes in a work-in-progress style, each adorned with a safety tag around the laces. The limited release leaves the sneaker market hungry for more, and Abloh hosts panels and workshops with Nike and additional releases throughout the year.
Abloh is named the artistic director of Louis Vuitton’s menswear collections, stepping into the role vacated by his friend and mentor Kim Jones. “It is an honor for me to accept this position. I find the heritage and creative integrity of the house are key inspirations and will look to reference them both while drawing parallels to modern times,” he says in a statement.
This summer, he will perform at Lollapalooza.
Virgil Alboh’s artworks will be the subject of an exhibition at the Museum of Contemporary Art in Chicago, and his Ikea collaboration will be released through the brand’s international stores.
Penelope Cruz, Cate Blanchett, Kristen Stewart, the beauties of cinema arrive in Cannes
The hairstyles, the eyeshadows are dressed in natural shades and the lips become (almost) the object of art. Almost to recall the desire of that romantic kiss that exchange Jean-Paul Belmondo and Anna Karina in the film The bandit of the 11 by Jean-Luc Godard, manifesto of the 71st edition of the Cannes Film Festival.
The beauty looks on the Croisette are confirmed, already from the early evening, a series of strokes of class that the madness “sacred and profane” of the Met Gala 2018 react by giving us the fairy tale of impeccable make-up and elegant collections.
In short, a real taste lesson to the parisienne with that touch of Hollywood style that makes this red carpet one of the most admired of the year, always full of beautiful inspirations: «The red carpet will be invaded by apparently unstructured, unstructured hairstyles: like beach waves, low bun, ponytails. A big trend will also be the fringe: long, chic, short, we’ll see it everywhere “, tells us live from Cannes Stéphane Lancien, International Hairstylist of L’Oréal Paris.
While a few minutes from the start of the red carpet Simone Belli, National Makeup Artist L’Oréal Paris reveals what the trend make-up will be: «I predict smokey eyes with blue, red or purple notes. Obviously you will not give up even the less colored but always rather intriguing shades like those of bronze and black. The lips will certainly be present, in all their sensuality and elegance in the bright tones of red. And then the finish glow, an indelible form of many looks because it gives three-dimensionality and a very glamorous look. The secret to increasing its effect? Mix warm and cold tones on temples because it multiplies the particularity of the result making it easier to wear and with more facets ».
So, two weeks of film festival, with 21 films in competition, presided over by a jury of beautiful including Australian actress Cate Blanchett , president of the Official Selection, who reconfirms already from the first photocall her sophisticated blond blonde lob combined with a complexion porcelain, Kristen Stewart with her unmistakable rock tuft and Léa Seydoux who will hardly betray her beloved red lipstick.
To move the Croisette, in addition to a river of cinephiles, will be the arrival of national and international actors and actresses such as Penelope Cruz accompanied by her husband Javier Bardem, Emilia Clarke, Valeria Golino, Alba Rohrwacher, Riccardo Scamarcio, Annabelle Belmondo, Georgia May Jagger and many other tops and socialites. So, ready for this cine-beauty marathon?
Heat the engines. 20 – 26 February 2018. The Milan Fashion Week Fall Winter 2018 2019 is about to begin and is announced to say the least rumbling, full of events, events and news not to be missed, not only for insiders, press, buyers and fashion people in I come from all over the world, but also for those who live in Milan every day.
With over 64 fashion shows, 92 presentations and 18 events on the calendar the February 2018 fashion week will be more lively than ever. To confirm the strength and strength of our fashion system there are the extremely comforting data of the Italian National Chamber of Fashion: the turnover of the Italian fashion industry in 2017 recorded a + 2.5% compared to 2016 and an increase in exports 4.3%, thus tracing growth. In short, the economic trends open the way for a certainly positive 2018 and a February in style. And this edition will demonstrate it with its many novelties.
Of course, among the guest stars on the front row of the Milan fashion shows there will be no Chiara Ferragni (who from her IG stories announced her decision to stay in Los Angeles to prepare for almost imminent birth) and we will probably no longer see “human walls” of street style photographers willing to block the city and tilt the traffic while photographing it (see above as it happened in September 2017 before the Fendi Spring Summer 2018 fashion show) but the show must go on. And do not worry! Do not miss it girl, model, celeb, new faces and influencers (true or aspiring) ready to contend for flash, photographic objectives and hashtag top trending: social side now inalienable for a week that will have its fulcrum and sacred focus in fashion Made in Italy.
Yes, this year more than ever, it will be our fashion to be the true protagonist of Milan Fashion Week: among the most important events of this Milan fashion week designed for the whole public (and not only for insiders) in fact, there is the ITALIANA exhibition. Italy seen in fashion from 1971-2001 with which the Italian National Chamber of Fashion, on the occasion of its sixtieth anniversary, celebrates the importance and value of Italian fashion. But not only! There are many new entries for the first time on the calendar: starting with Moncler, which is entrusted with the official opening of MMD on February 20 (find out more in the gallery), up to Tommy Hilfiger, who chose Milan as fourth stage of his #TOMMYNOW, passing the Italian Francesca Liberatore who after years on the runways of the New York Fashion Week “back” at home. Together with her, supported by CNMI, Christian Pellizzari, Lucio Vanotti and Angel Chen just to name a few to witness the attention of Camera Moda towards young talents. And then the fashion hub market dedicated to emerging designers including Giannico and the duo revealing Archivio, to keep an eye on, or the inclusive fashion show (scheduled for February 27th and open to the public) and much more. Like the highly anticipated event by Anna Dello Russo of 24 February on the occasion of the publication of the book published by Phaidon AdR Book: Beyond Fashion: an evening in which Christie’s will auction 30 total looks from Anna’s personal archive followed by a dinner hosted by Swarovski and a party that promises to be the most exuberant and sparkling ever!
Do you want to know every news of this Milan Fashion Week and be updated on what will happen from 20 to 26 February 2018? Everything you need to know in this gallery, to experience the fashion week as a real fashion insider. Are you ready?
Sure, it would be great to stay in celebration mode forever, but eventually you have to hit the reset button on your life. Here, 10 easy ways to do it.
1. Be Radiant
If you buy only one new skin-care product during the long, dry winter months, make it a luminosity- enhancing serum, such as Kypris Beauty Elixir III Prismatic Array ($150). It’s chock-full of antioxidants like vitamin C, which brings tired, dull complexions into the light, and is gentle enough for those who have sensitive skin.
2. Boost Your Lashes
For an instant eye-brightener, reach for a tube of Maybelline New York The Falsies Push Up Angel Mascara ($10). Its name is as long as its staying power but more important is its brush—a fan-shaped, short-bristled wonder—that ensures curled, are-they-real-or-not? lashes with every swipe.
3. Get Fuller Hair
Nutrafol ($88), a blend of marine collagen, hyaluronic acid, and vitamin E, is the buzziest hair-growth supplement around. Riawna Capri, who tends to the manes of some of Hollywood’s A-list (Jennifer Lawrence, Selena Gomez), swears by it. “I have seen a huge difference with my clients after taking it for three months,” says Capri. “Their hair is so much thicker, especially around the hairline.”
4. Shop Wisely
Lifestyle guru Gwyneth Paltrow’s Goop Clean Beauty is packed with advice on how to choose the right beauty products and how to eat better as well as clean-living tips like”Energy, enthusiasm, and glowing skin do take you pretty far, actually.” Amen to that.
5. Replace Your Lipstick
Red lip color will wake up your face in a flash. Our pick: Nars Velvet Lip Glide in Mineshaft ($26). This poppy shade is flattering on most skin tones, and it goes on like a dream, leaving behind rich, high-impact color that wears evenly and keeps lips soft all day long.
6. Find Your Zen
Get an Apple Watch for the holidays? Go launch its built-in Breathe app. “Wait,” you may be thinking, “I don’t need an app to tell me how to breathe.” And you would be right, but it does much more than that: It blocks out time for you to meditate, which studies have shown can significantly reduce stress and anxiety in just minutes. For non-Watch-havers, the Headspace app (from $6.24 per month) is a good option.
7. Whiten Your Smile
Already a devotee of Crest Whitestrips? The newest version, Crest Whitestrips With Light ($100), is souped-up thanks to the addition of blue-light technology, which works in conjunction with the strips you know and love to accelerate the whitening effect.
8. Exercise Anytime, Anywhere
You can get a serious workout with the Cody app (classes from $10), if you have access to a screen (yes, your phone counts). Big-time trainers (Ashley Galvin, Jacquelyn Umof, Dylan Werner) coach you through yoga, Pilates, HIIT, and barre classes streamed to you, on your schedule.
9. Repair Your Hair
Restore overworked strands to peak condition with b3 Demi Permanent Conditioner. This in- salon treatment combines the deep hydration of a mask with the rejuvenating qualities of a bond builder, leaving hair stronger and softer for up to 12 shampoos (from $45).
10. Self-Tan Smarter
Tan-Luxe takes the guesswork—and the smell—out of at-home tanning. Add a few drops of The Face ($50) or The Body ($60) to your moisturizer or body lotion of choice, and smooth evenly on your skin. In a few hours you’ll develop a natural, streak-free glow (without staining your sheets or clothing). Want deeper color? Use more drops. Simple.