With deep sincerity, the Creative Director Alessandro Michele shares with the Gucci
Community the pages written in his home in Rome during the last few months.
ROME MARCH 29, 2020 -‐ WE HAVE DISCOVERED SMALL THINGS
In these days of confinement, in a suspended time that we struggle to imagine free, I try to ask myself about the meaning of my actions. It is a vital and urgent question for me, which forces me to listen subtly, to stop carefully. It is the attempt to name, with the precision of love, my fears and my desires. It is the opportunity to challenge the aphasia that every trauma imposes. After all, the tragedy we are experiencing is opening up new spaces for reflection. We could never have imagined that we could feel so tied to life by a bond of tremor and excruciating tenderness. We could never have thought of recontacting, in such a profound way, the fragility of our creatural destiny. Our need for reciprocity. We found out little thing. A miracle of nothing. Above all, we understood that we had gone oversized. Our unscrupulous actions set fire to the house we live in. We believed ourselves to be other than nature, more clever and omnipotent. We have tamed, dominated and injured her. We unleashed Prometheus, and buried Pan. How much arrogance has made us lose our sisterhood with butterflies, flowers, trees and roots. How much unscrupulous greed has made us lose understanding and care, connection and belonging. We earthquake the sacredness of life, forget about our being species. In the end, we lost our breath.
ROME APRIL 7, 2020 – ON WHAT WE WOULD NOT LIKE TO COME BACK EQUAL
Today that the devastation has found us unprepared, we must be able to reflect on what we would not like to return the same. Because the biggest risk, for our tomorrow, is to abdicate any real and necessary discontinuity. Unfortunately, our history is studded with crises that have taught us nothing. Of economic collapses and social devastations that have been faced by imposing the same recipes that had generated them. Of wounds that have not had the ability to regenerate thought. Of mourning that we have not been able to live to change ourselves and our relationships. This crisis therefore represents a fundamental test case. Try in the sense of pain, fatigue, danger. But also in the sense of evaluation and judgment. Because it is precisely in pain that we have the opportunity to look critically at our recent past. To the list of debts, misunderstandings, out of tune, errors. To missteps and unconsciousness. The deafening lack of thoughts that we didn’t have the courage to formulate. This present therefore gives each of us important responsibilities. Everyone can exercise them, with respect to their role and their actions, to contribute to a constellation of molecular and widespread changes. In my own small way, I urgently feel the need to change many things in my job. After all, the inclination to change has always characterized my professional life, marking it with a natural and joyful creative restlessness. But this crisis is as if it had amplified this transformative urgency, making it no longer deferrable.
ROME APRIL 27, 2020 – THE MOTIVE OF A CHOICE
The change that I imagine first of all passes through the ability to recontact the deeper reasons that pushed me to enter the world of fashion. I feel the need to renew a pact, purifying the essential from the superfluous. I feel the need to come back, in an authentic way, to the motive for a choice. For that set of reasons that built my going. Over time, I understood that these motifs have different names and intensities, but they all fatally gather around the same urgency: the possibility of telling. It is this possibility, so ancestral and powerful, that has always allowed me to build expressive passages, to give space to that inexpressible nucleus that agitates my dreams, to celebrate the nostalgia of imperfection, to pay homage to the beauty that blooms in form in shape. It is this possibility that allows me to grasp, with infinite bites, the daily love of existence.
Paris Fashion Week Fall 2020: See All the Celebrities Attending Shows and Events
It’s here! After most of another jam-packed fashion month has passed us by, Paris Fashion Week Fall 2020 has finally arrived. And while many editors, models, and insiders are positively exhausted, there’s something about being in the city of light that reminds the entire industry why they do it all. So far, we’ve seen shows like Dior and Off-White create major moments, and there’s so much more to come before Chanel, Miu Miu, and Louis Vuitton make for a jam-packed final day on March 3. At all of the biggest shows, we can be sure to see supermodels like Gigi Hadid and Kaia Gerber among the cast, in addition to stars from around the world (and a bunch of chic French girls) filling the front rows before heading out to celebrate at some of the chicest events.
Looking to feel like you’re part of the action, or trying to make sense of it all in between a packed schedule? Consider this your cheat sheet to all the most exciting celebrities attending shows and events at Paris Fashion Week Fall 2020. From the ultracool audience at Saint Laurent to all the hottest parties, check back here over the next week to see all the ways fashion and pop culture are bound to align.
Since 2014, Off-White’s runway shows have become a premiere site for inventive contemporary fashion. With Virgil Abloh at the helm, the brand has used its platform to redefine youth culture and streetwear. Known for its $1,000 sweatshirts and ironic, quotation marked branding, Off-White’s past collections have created the perfect mix of high fashion and ready-to-wear items. With the newest collection slated to take the stage at Paris Fashion Week tomorrow, Abloh’s runway is bound to impress.
The Off-White show on February 27, 2020 at 1:00 p.m Paris
TOM FORD IN LA
Designer Tom Ford, a favorite of Hollywood’s top stars, helped kick off Oscar weekend on Friday night moving his runway show featuring looks for fall 2020 to southern California for one of the fashion season’s most anticipated events.
With a star-laden front row boasting Renee Zellweger, Jennifer Lopez and Miley Cyrus, Ford showed an extensive collection of women’s and men’s wear rendered in sultry, sensuous fabrics such as black lace and deep shades of satin.
Sticking mostly to solids but for a few florals and animal prints, the famed designer’s collection recalled the free-spirited, casual looks of the late 1960s and early 1970s, in a possible nod to the hit film, “Once Upon a Time in Hollywood.”
The Quentin Tarantino film set in the summer of 1969 is a strong contender at Sunday’s Academy Awards and is expected to bring A-list actor Brad Pitt his first Oscar. Zellweger is also favored to win for her star turn as Judy Garland in “Judy.”
New York’s semi-annual fashion week kicked off on Thursday, but with an earlier-than-usual date of Feb. 9, Hollywood’s Academy Awards threaten to divert at least some of the limelight – and star power – from the New York shows.
Ford, who is also head of the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA), is no stranger to the film world himself.
Besides dressing many of Hollywood’s top actors and actresses for the red carpet, he has directed films “A Single Man” and “Nocturnal Animals.”
On Friday night Ford dressed female and male models in wide lapelled jackets topping unstructured trousers.
In keeping with the late 60s vibe, blazers were worn over t-shirts and paired with patchwork denim or drawstring pants. Loose-fitting women’s tops rendered in natural fibers were sleeveless and seemingly carefree.
For men, there were sexy satin or suede suits in colors popular 50 years ago such as deep rust or wine. The hippy esthetic even got a nod via a lavender print jacket.
Ford ended the show, which was also attended by baseball superstar Alex Rodriguez and actress Kate Hudson, with a series of gowns that suggested Bohemian chic, some backless, others featuring flowing black lace or tiered fringe.
Pitti Uomo 2020: the men’s fashion event returns to shine in Florence, also talking about the environment.
This morning at Palazzo Vecchio to open this edition a video message from Prince Charles of England dedicated to the importance of defending nature, the environment also in manufacturing practices.
PRINCE CARLO – The heir to the United Kingdom throne spoke as patron of the Campaign for Wool, a global project to support the use of pure wool obtained from organic cultivation. The usual inauguration at Palazzo Vecchio was Mayor Nardella, the President of the Florence Center for Italian Fashion, Antonella Mansi, the President of Pitti Immagine, Claudio Marenzi, the President of Ice, Carlo Maria Ferro, the Undersecretary for Foreign Affairs Ivan Scalfarotto, the president of Confindustria, Vincenzo Boccia.
VIP GUESTS – Among the VIP guests at the fair, the sailor Mauro Pelaschier (Stand Slam, Wednesday 8), Stefano De Martino (from Gazzarrini, Wednesday 8), Elisabetta Gregoraci (stand Us Polo Assn., Wednesday 8) are expected, Vittorio Brumotti (Lotto Leggenda, Wednesday 8), Elisabetta Canalis (from Pollini, Wednesday 8), Pupo (from Jke, Thursday 9).
IL FIORINO D’ORO – the prestigious prize of the City of Florence will be awarded today at 14:00, in the Sala of Elements of Palazzo Vecchio. to François-Henri Pinault, president, and CEO of the Kering group. Mayor Dario Nardella will hand over the award to the French entrepreneur and financier who controls luxury brands such as Gucci, Saint Laurent, Bottega Veneta, Balenciaga, Boucheron, Alexander McQueen, and Stella McCartney.
LACMA Art + Film Gala 2019
LACMA is one of the largest art museums in the western United States, located in Los Angeles, on Wilshire Boulevard, along the so-called Museum Row of the Miracle Mile, next to the Page Museum and La Brea Tar Pits.
Encyclopedic museum with almost one million visitors a year and more than 10,000 works of art, ranging from prehistory to contemporary art. The museum often organizes art exhibitions, lectures, screenings, and concerts. It also organizes an annual gala dinner, inaugurated first in 2011, with performances by international artists. The proceeds of the annual event go to sign the initiative of LACMA to make the film more central in the curatorial programming of the museum, financing at the same time the broader mission of LACMA which includes exhibitions, acquisitions, and educational programming, as well as screenings that explore the intersection between art and film.
The Los Angeles County Museum of Art, and was founded as an independent museum in 1961; before that it was a department of the Natural History Museum of Los Angeles County (then “Los Angeles Museum of History, Science and Art”), founded in 1910 within the Exposition Park, near the University of Southern California. In 1965 the museum moved to its current location as an independent institution.
Initially, the museum building, inspired by the Lincoln Center and the Los Angeles Music Center, was composed of three pavilions, built by William Pereira. In 1986 the Robert O. Anderson Building for the contemporary art collection was added and in 1988, the Japanese Art pavilion by Bruce Goff. Finally, in 1994, the museum purchased the adjacent May Department Stores building. In 2004 a renovation was designed by Renzo Piano and ended in 2010.
Milan Fashion Week
From its newly balanced schedule to creative director Daniel Lee’s next trendsetting show for Bottega Veneta, this is Vogue’s guide to MFW spring/summer 2020. Image credits: Getty Images/Shutterstock.
Hot on the heels of New York’s schedule shake-up and London’s public-facing shows, Milan Fashion Week spring/summer 2020 (September 17 to 23) is making a case for parity, sharing out the most sought-after schedule slots among the designers in favour of a more balanced calendar.
“A strong spirit of sharing and synergy has drawn up a more balanced calendar to give due weight to all of the fashion weekdays and thereby benefit the entire system and the city of Milan,” noted a statement from Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana (CNMI) in July. The decision came after a roundtable discussion involving high-profile brands such as Gucci (above), Fendi, Max Mara, Giorgio Armani, Prada, Marni, Salvatore Ferragamo and Bottega Veneta.
Speaking of Bottega Veneta, ever since creative director Daniel Lee’s (above) appointment in July 2018, there has been a non-stop buzz surrounding the luxury Italian brand and its plans for MFW spring/summer 2020; Lee’s show is expected to be the biggest talking point of the week.
The British designer, who graduated from Central Saint Martins and previously held roles at Maison Margiela, Balenciaga and Donna Karan before joining Céline, said at the time of joining: “Maintaining the ingrained codes of the house, craftsmanship, quality and sophistication, I look forward to evolving what has gone before, while contributing a new perspective and modernity.”
Lee’s Bottega Veneta spring/summer 2020 show will undoubtedly embody the celebratory tone expected from MFW this season; the schedule is packed full of anniversaries and parties, as a slew of new names are welcomed and a spotlight is shone on sustainability and inclusivity.
Versace will be one of the most sought-after shows of MFW spring/summer 2020 (8pm, September 20) after Capri Holdings completed its highly publicised merger and bought the fashion house for US$2.1 billion in 2018.
Other can’t-miss shows include Massimo Giorgetti’s MSGM (above), celebrating its 10th year (11:30am, September 21), Salvatore Ferragamo (9:30am, September 21) and Jil Sander (8pm, September 18).
All eyes, however, will be on Bottega Veneta (6:30pm, September 19), as former creative director Tomas Maier’s successor Daniel Lee delivers his hotly-anticipated spring/summer 2020 collection. So far, Lee has wowed the fashion world with his modern spin on the Italian heritage brand with its sell-out shoes and accessories. The question is: will his sophomore collection live up to expectations?
In the new egalitarian spirit of MFW, Prada (4pm, September 18) and Gucci (4pm, September 22) will have shared custody of the opening and closing slots, with Giorgio Armani as Saturday’s main (4pm, September 21). In the name of maintaining balance and harmony, Gucci will open and Giorgio Armani will close in the following season. Notably missing from the schedule is Roberto Cavalli. Paul Surridge departed in March, saying: “I have given much consideration to this decision and reached the conclusion that the mission I have signed on has changed and enters a new direction with a new perspective.” In July, Dubai-based property developer Damac had its bid to buy the brand approved – but the brand’s next chapter remains a mystery. Philipp Plein has put a pause on his over-the-top shows, opting instead for an in-store event, while this season will be Fendi’s (above) first womenswear collection without Karl Lagerfeld’s input (12:30pm, September 19). The legendary designer passed away days before the February show.
A handful of new names are making their MFW debuts this season, including MRZ by Simona Marziali (5:30pm, September 19); Antwerp Royal Academy of Fine Arts master graduate Shuting Qiu (11:30, September 22) and Copenhagen Fashion Week darling Nynne Kunde (5:30pm, September 21).
Making the move from New York is German brand Boss as it looks to strengthen its ties in the European markets (10:30am, September 22). Drome by Marianna Rosati (above) joins from Paris Fashion Week (9:30am, September 22). London’s Peter Pilotto is decamping to Milan also — the first time since the brand’s inception in 2007 — swapping London’s cocktail clubs for the historic Teatro Manzoni (12:30pm, September 18).
Vogue Italia’s fashion-talent scouting project ‘Vogue Talents’ is celebrating its 10th year. The multimedia digital platform has unearthed talented fashion creatives from across the world and the initiative is now synonymous with representing social trends from the past decade: sustainability, inclusivity in beauty, gender fluidity and feminism, to name a few.
“It’s borderless and barrier-free,” says Sara Sozzani Maino, head of Vogue Talents and deputy editor-in-chief of special fashion projects at Vogue Italia. “It searches the world because there’s talent everywhere. Our mission is to act responsibly and set an example that the world needs to change.” Vogue Italia will mark the milestone with a retrospective exhibition on September 20 to 21, held at the Palazzo Cusani, Brera.
Meanwhile, Vogue Japan is celebrating its 20th birthday with a Kawaii-themed party in partnership with Bulgari, hosted by creative director-at-large Anna Dello Russo (above) and editor-in-chief Mitsuko Watanabe on September 18.
And rounding off proceedings with a focus on sustainability is the third edition of the Green Carpet Fashion Awards, which will close the week at La Scala Theater on September 22 and will be hosted by Livia Firth, creative director of Eco-Age, and Carlo Capasa, chairman of CNMI.
Victoria Beckham debuted her Spring 2020 collection during London Fashion Week; the new lineup showed a softer, more romantic side of the designer, who often sticks to stricter tailoring. As per usual, the whole Beckham clan was there in the front row to cheer her on, including husband David Beckham, along with their four children Brooklyn, Romeo, Cruz, and Harper. Post-show, the Beckhams then headed to a private dinner at Harry’s Bar to celebrate the designer, where Victoria and David pulled off an extremely chic his-and-hers suiting moment.
Walking into the party hand-in-hand, the Beckham’s proved they’re London’s hottest couple this week by coordinating their evening suits. Victoria chose an oversized blazer in polka dots, pairing it with a ruffled purple blouse—her new collection was heavy on the ruffles—and high-waisted burgundy trousers; finally adding a pair of discreet stiletto sandals gave the outfit a more elevated, going-out feel. David, meanwhile, chose a pale blue Dior double-breasted suit, designed by the couple’s close friend Kim Jones, and gave it a more casual finish with a simple white T-shirt and crisp high-top sneakers. Their complementary looks were polished and dressed-up, but undeniably effortless, too. That’s the Beckham style signature, after all.
- The global fashion research platform Lyst has published its latest ranking of the most important fashion brands online for the fourth quarter of 2018 and shows that luxury brands are dominating.
- Gucci, Balenciaga and Versace all have leading positions in the top 10.
- See the full list below.
Luxury fashion is having a moment of glory.
Lyst’s global fashion research platform released its latest ranking of the world’s top fashion brands for the fourth quarter of 2018, and luxury brands like Gucci, Balenciaga and Versace dominated it.
This confirms recent data from The NPD Group, which showed that sales of luxury fashion dollars, particularly in the US market, have increased by 50% in recent years, with substantial growth in sales of expensive clothing and footwear.
“The luxury market is evolving, new brands are attracting attention and online sales platforms are expanding the competitive landscape,” said Marshal Cohen, NPD Chief Industry Advisor, in a note accompanying the report.
To put the ranking together, Lyst analyzed the online shopping behaviour of over five million consumers a month, monitoring the way these shoppers search, “browse” and purchase fashion items from 12,000 designers and online stores. The report also takes into account Google’s search data and social media mentions and engagement statistics.
Find out which are the brands in the ranking below:
- Facebook / Burberry
Despite the skepticism towards its turnaround efforts, Lyst data shows that Burberry’s “renewed look” is having a good response among customers, the report says.
The brand has moved into a new management after longtime creative director Christopher Bailey left the company last year.
According to Lyst, Burberry has launched limited edition capsule collections, exclusively available on Instagram and on the Chinese messaging app WeChat . These have been exhausted in a few hours, the report said.
- A model wears a creation for Valentino’s autumn / winter 2019/20 collection presented in Paris, Wednesday 16 January 2019. AP Photo / Thibault Camus
Thanks to Gwyneth Paltrow , Valentino had a crackling start in the fourth quarter. The actress turned entrepreneur wore a Valentino dress for her wedding in September.
- Matches Fashion
Vetements continues to maintain its place in the top 10 list. He peaked in social media after Tilda Swinton wore a red Vetements dress for the Sitges Film Festival in Spain in October.
7. Stone Island
- Facebook / Stone Island
Stone Island reappeared in the top 10 after a six-month break.
Research for Stone Island products increased by 122% in the most recent quarter, according to Lyst, and the brand was mentioned more than 327,000 times on social media.
- Facebook / Versace
Versace came to the fore last year after being bought by Michael Kors, now Capri Holdings, for $ 2.12 billion.
Capri said it now plans to grow Versace revenues from around $ 808 million to $ 2 billion , expand its market from 200 to 300 stores and increase its range of shoes and accessories.
- Fendi Mania Capsule Collection launch event at Fendi on October 16, 2018 in Beverly Hills, California. Getty / Stefanie Keenan
In October, Fendi launched its Fendi Mania capsule collection, which presents a mashup of the Fendi / Fila logo,designed by an Instagram artist.
The launch events of this collection, which took place in nine cities, turned on social media, Lyst wrote, creating great interest for the entire brand.
- Facebook / Moncler
Not only did Moncler take fourth place on the list, but his luxury down jackets were also included in Lyst’s more fashionable product lists, both male and female.
- Rich Polk / Getty Images for GOAT
The ugly sneakers are still in vogue, which means that Balenciaga continues to shine.
The brand ended up in the limelight in December, after Michelle Obama wore a $ 4,000 thigh-high pair of Balenciaga boots for an event in New York to promote her new book.
- Facebook / Off-White
Off-White continues to be one of the most interesting brands on the Internet. Founded in 2012, this high-end treetwear label is the brainchild of Virgil Abloh, who is also artistic director of Louis Vuitton Man.
His Nike x Off-White The Ten series was the collaboration of the hottest 2018 sneakers, according to Lyst.
- Gucci handbags in a shop at Brookfield Place, Manhattan. Business Insider / Jessica Tyler
Gucci reigned supreme at the end of 2018 after occupying the first places in the ranking in previous parts of the year.
His recent success has been attributed to creative director Alessandro Michele, who has led the brand since 2015. Michele seems to have a deep awareness of what young people want, including bright and eclectic colors and eye-catching, flashy patterns, which come well on Instagram, wrote Business Insider in July after visiting one of its stores.
Between October and December, more than six million buyers searched for Gucci accessories. They have become among the most powerful products in fashion, according to Lyst.
Sara Dal Monte
OFFICIAL NYFW SCHEDULE / ALL SHOWS
(Plus year-round New York fashion events.)
This season, FWO is offering free registration for independent showcases. As with all registrations, this does not guarantee admission. You should still be registering with other producers, and be looking for ticketed opportunities (see below) that guarantee admission.
credit by Fashion Week Online
Sara Dal Monte