Three great Italian fashion houses, three companies that base their roots in Tuscany, Roberto Cavalli, Gucci, Ermanno Scervino, are the three-axis that unleashes Pitti Uomo n. 94 the Florentine menswear show scheduled in Florence from 12 to 15 June, with 1,240 brands at Fortezza da Basso, 561 of which are foreign, which will be inaugurated at Palazzo Vecchio by the new Minister of Cultural Heritage Alberto Bonisoli.

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At the opening of Pitti on 12 June Gucci celebrates the opening of two new rooms in the Gallery curated by Maria Luisa Frisa, inside the Gucci Garden created by the creative director of the maison Alessandro Michele in the historic Palazzo della Mercanzia, in Piazza della Signoria. In the Gucci Garden boutique will be presented new products in a single edition with the illustrations of an artist in his debut in collaboration with Gucci. Roberto Cavalli, guest star of this edition parades on June 13 marking the return of the brand in his city of origin. The new men’s collection is signed by Paul Surridge, new creative director of all the lines of the group, which since 2015 is 90% owned by the investment fund Clessidra Sgr. Ermanno Scervino celebrates the opening of the new boutique in Via Strozzi and on June 14th participates in the presentation of the Scervino -Fondazione Zeffirelli project, for which the students of Istituto Marangoni interpreted 12 outfits of the Domata Bisbetica. Giorgio Armani also inaugurates a boutique in via de ‘Tornabuoni.

On June 13th Cos presents Soma, a capsule based on comfort and design. For the launch, a special event will animate an evocative place in the city with the participation of the British choreographer Wayne McGregor. Birkenstock also chooses June 13 for its event in the Torrigiani Garden. On the platform the mood of the collection and music signed by Michel Gaubert. The Pitti Immagine Discovery Foundation presents Fanatic Feelings – Fashion Plays Football, a multimedia exhibition curated by Markus Ebner, founder of the magazines Achtung Mode and Sepp Football Fashion and the art critic Francesco Bonami, which highlights the attraction that the world of football has on fashion and male imagery. The exhibition held until 22 July, is visited in the complex of Santa Maria Novella.

The London-based designer Craig Green, a Pitti 94 menswear guest, will present his collection on June 14th. In its proposals emerge the ability to innovate the codes of menswear without losing sight of the dynamics of the market. A style that mixes workwear influences and futuristic volumes, sculptural silhouettes and functional aspects. The Japanese designer Fumito Ganryu, Pitti project, after the experience in the group Comme des Garcons presents on June 13 in Florence his independent label with an event. Pitti’s Guest Nation is Georgia on stage at the Spazio Carra in Fortezza, thanks to the support of Lelp Enterprise Georgia, the agency headed by the Georgian Ministry of Economy. The brands are: Aznauri, Anuka Keburia, Damian Gorge, Situationist, Tatuna Nikolaishvili, Vaska.

Two birthdays at Pitti: Herno celebrates 70 years with the Library in the former Leopolda Station; Lardini celebrates 40 of activities with an event at Fortezza. On 13th June, at Pitti, there will also be Moncler Genius 7 Fragment Hiroshi Fujiwara, the latter present. Federico Curradi returns to Florence on June 14 to present the homonymous collection with an installation-event in the garden of a noble palace. Emilio Pucci and Bonaveri meet to stage their creative skills. At Polveriera, Sease, a brand of Giacomo and Franco Loro Piana, introduces a concept on male passions. Nick Wooster X Paul & Shark is the capsule that tells the Italian brand seen by the American designer. The new line of Iceberg, Ice Play, made its debut with the world of street couture. On the occasion of the 80th anniversary of Candiani Denim, a special co-lab with the Los Angeles brand Atelier & Repairs, from which a 100% sustainable denim based capsule is born.



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Top Boys: the 10 highest paid models in the world A monthly American fashion analyzes the phenomenon of the “Top Boys”, the models who earn over a million dollars a year. For the first time in history, their cachet grow more than those of the supermodels. That’s who they are and because they are worth so much Double cover of Detail, the monthly men’s fashion America’s most famous. March issue, on newsstands February 10, one of the most important of the year: report 10 men, called “Pretty Boys”. They are the highest paid models in the world, earning up to $ 1.5 million a year and are considered the stars. “For the first time in history, they begin to cost the same as a supermodel,” says the website of fashion BoF Dan Peres, editor of Detail. “We decided to put them on the cover because their influence on the taste and purchase of men is stronger than that of the actors or sports people.” Thus, surprisingly, the group “belloni” breaks a historical record: during 2013, increasing their cachet was higher than that of names like Kate Moss, Gisele and Cara Delevigne. Of course, these figures flying much, much higher. But none of them can count on the acceleration took place recently in the market for men. The first reason for such a result is purely economic: China and emerging markets see the rise of a new middle-class male entrepreneurs and managers that requires clothes and made ​​to measure. Consequently, the market of fashion since man has soared, while the female is stable, sometimes even descending. The other important factor is given by the mass market fashion that has learned to use these guys to pull their products. Not only, therefore, Armani, Versace, Gucci and Prada: Zara, H & M and Uniqlo are using the faces of these beauties from different seasons, helping to grow their cachet. Then there is another hitch to their reputation: Social Networks. The highest paid of them, the American Garret Neff, is practically a star on Instagram and Facebook in recent months, has tripled its followers by posting private moments and backstage of her photo shoots, capturing the attention of strangers and even insiders the work. Of course, the distance with media phenomena such as Dear Delevigne is abysmal: it has about 4 million fans, while Neff travels around aI 20 thousand. The acceleration of the men, however, is really higher than that of women. Finally, there remains a doubt about this list: the top ten of male beauty are completely missing African Americans and Asian models. The latter, in fact, were among the most popular during the last edition of the men’s fashion shows in Milan and Paris. As for African Americans, however, their exclusion would seem to confirm also in the battle waged by male models Naomi Campbell and Iman with the campaign Diversity Coalition, an initiative against all forms of racism in the fashion world. The question comes like a punch in the stomach: 10 white men are really the ideal representation of male beauty today?

Sara Dal Monte

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