Fashion

NOTES FROM THE SILENCE

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With deep sincerity, the Creative Director Alessandro Michele shares with the Gucci

Community the pages written in his home in Rome during the last few months.

 

 

ROME MARCH 29, 2020 -‐ WE HAVE DISCOVERED SMALL THINGS

In these days of confinement, in a suspended time that we struggle to imagine free, I try to ask myself about the meaning of my actions. It is a vital and urgent question for me, which forces me to listen subtly, to stop carefully. It is the attempt to name, with the precision of love, my fears and my desires. It is the opportunity to challenge the aphasia that every trauma imposes. After all, the tragedy we are experiencing is opening up new spaces for reflection. We could never have imagined that we could feel so tied to life by a bond of tremor and excruciating tenderness. We could never have thought of recontacting, in such a profound way, the fragility of our creatural destiny. Our need for reciprocity. We found out little thing. A miracle of nothing. Above all, we understood that we had gone oversized. Our unscrupulous actions set fire to the house we live in. We believed ourselves to be other than nature, more clever and omnipotent. We have tamed, dominated and injured her. We unleashed Prometheus, and buried Pan. How much arrogance has made us lose our sisterhood with butterflies, flowers, trees and roots. How much unscrupulous greed has made us lose understanding and care, connection and belonging. We earthquake the sacredness of life, forget about our being species. In the end, we lost our breath.

 

ROME APRIL 7, 2020 – ON WHAT WE WOULD NOT LIKE TO COME BACK EQUAL

Today that the devastation has found us unprepared, we must be able to reflect on what we would not like to return the same. Because the biggest risk, for our tomorrow, is to abdicate any real and necessary discontinuity. Unfortunately, our history is studded with crises that have taught us nothing. Of economic collapses and social devastations that have been faced by imposing the same recipes that had generated them. Of wounds that have not had the ability to regenerate thought. Of mourning that we have not been able to live to change ourselves and our relationships. This crisis therefore represents a fundamental test case. Try in the sense of pain, fatigue, danger. But also in the sense of evaluation and judgment. Because it is precisely in pain that we have the opportunity to look critically at our recent past. To the list of debts, misunderstandings, out of tune, errors. To missteps and unconsciousness. The deafening lack of thoughts that we didn’t have the courage to formulate. This present therefore gives each of us important responsibilities. Everyone can exercise them, with respect to their role and their actions, to contribute to a constellation of molecular and widespread changes. In my own small way, I urgently feel the need to change many things in my job. After all, the inclination to change has always characterized my professional life, marking it with a natural and joyful creative restlessness. But this crisis is as if it had amplified this transformative urgency, making it no longer deferrable.

 

ROME APRIL 27, 2020 – THE MOTIVE OF A CHOICE

The change that I imagine first of all passes through the ability to recontact the deeper reasons that pushed me to enter the world of fashion. I feel the need to renew a pact, purifying the essential from the superfluous. I feel the need to come back, in an authentic way, to the motive for a choice. For that set of reasons that built my going. Over time, I understood that these motifs have different names and intensities, but they all fatally gather around the same urgency: the possibility of telling. It is this possibility, so ancestral and powerful, that has always allowed me to build expressive passages, to give space to that inexpressible nucleus that agitates my dreams, to celebrate the nostalgia of imperfection, to pay homage to the beauty that blooms in form in shape. It is this possibility that allows me to grasp, with infinite bites, the daily love of existence.

 

GUCCI

Alessandro Michele

OFF__WHITE SHOW IN PARIS

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OFF__WHITE

Since 2014, Off-White’s runway shows have become a premiere site for inventive contemporary fashion. With Virgil Abloh at the helm, the brand has used its platform to redefine youth culture and streetwear. Known for its $1,000 sweatshirts and ironic, quotation marked branding, Off-White’s past collections have created the perfect mix of high fashion and ready-to-wear items. With the newest collection slated to take the stage at Paris Fashion Week tomorrow, Abloh’s runway is bound to impress.

The Off-White show on February 27, 2020 at 1:00 p.m Paris

 

Alessandro Sicuro

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Tom Ford shows his sexy designs in Los Angeles on Oscar weekend

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TOM FORD IN LA

Designer Tom Ford, a favorite of Hollywood’s top stars, helped kick off Oscar weekend on Friday night moving his runway show featuring looks for fall 2020 to southern California for one of the fashion season’s most anticipated events.

With a star-laden front row boasting Renee Zellweger, Jennifer Lopez and Miley Cyrus, Ford showed an extensive collection of women’s and men’s wear rendered in sultry, sensuous fabrics such as black lace and deep shades of satin.

Sticking mostly to solids but for a few florals and animal prints, the famed designer’s collection recalled the free-spirited, casual looks of the late 1960s and early 1970s, in a possible nod to the hit film, “Once Upon a Time in Hollywood.”

The Quentin Tarantino film set in the summer of 1969 is a strong contender at Sunday’s Academy Awards and is expected to bring A-list actor Brad Pitt his first Oscar. Zellweger is also favored to win for her star turn as Judy Garland in “Judy.”

New York’s semi-annual fashion week kicked off on Thursday, but with an earlier-than-usual date of Feb. 9, Hollywood’s Academy Awards threaten to divert at least some of the limelight – and star power – from the New York shows.

Ford, who is also head of the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA), is no stranger to the film world himself.

Besides dressing many of Hollywood’s top actors and actresses for the red carpet, he has directed films “A Single Man” and “Nocturnal Animals.”

On Friday night Ford dressed female and male models in wide lapelled jackets topping unstructured trousers.

In keeping with the late 60s vibe, blazers were worn over t-shirts and paired with patchwork denim or drawstring pants. Loose-fitting women’s tops rendered in natural fibers were sleeveless and seemingly carefree.

For men, there were sexy satin or suede suits in colors popular 50 years ago such as deep rust or wine. The hippy esthetic even got a nod via a lavender print jacket.

Ford ended the show, which was also attended by baseball superstar Alex Rodriguez and actress Kate Hudson, with a series of gowns that suggested Bohemian chic, some backless, others featuring flowing black lace or tiered fringe.

 

Sara Dal Monte

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PITTI THE FASHION FROM ITALY GO

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PITTI 97

Pitti Uomo 2020: the men’s fashion event returns to shine in Florence, also talking about the environment.
This morning at Palazzo Vecchio to open this edition a video message from Prince Charles of England dedicated to the importance of defending nature, the environment also in manufacturing practices.

PRINCE CARLO – The heir to the United Kingdom throne spoke as patron of the Campaign for Wool, a global project to support the use of pure wool obtained from organic cultivation. The usual inauguration at Palazzo Vecchio was Mayor Nardella, the President of the Florence Center for Italian Fashion, Antonella Mansi, the President of Pitti Immagine, Claudio Marenzi, the President of Ice, Carlo Maria Ferro, the Undersecretary for Foreign Affairs Ivan Scalfarotto, the president of Confindustria, Vincenzo Boccia.

VIP GUESTS – Among the VIP guests at the fair, the sailor Mauro Pelaschier (Stand Slam, Wednesday 8), Stefano De Martino (from Gazzarrini, Wednesday 8), Elisabetta Gregoraci (stand Us Polo Assn., Wednesday 8) are expected, Vittorio Brumotti (Lotto Leggenda, Wednesday 8), Elisabetta Canalis (from Pollini, Wednesday 8), Pupo (from Jke, Thursday 9).

IL FIORINO D’ORO – the prestigious prize of the City of Florence will be awarded today at 14:00, in the Sala of Elements of Palazzo Vecchio. to François-Henri Pinault, president, and CEO of the Kering group. Mayor Dario Nardella will hand over the award to the French entrepreneur and financier who controls luxury brands such as Gucci, Saint Laurent, Bottega Veneta, Balenciaga, Boucheron, Alexander McQueen, and Stella McCartney.

 

 


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LYST, THE PLATFORM OF FASHION, HAS PUBLISHED HERE, THE 10 MOST FAMOUS BRANDS

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  • The global fashion research platform Lyst has published its latest ranking of the most important fashion brands online for the fourth quarter of 2018 and shows that luxury brands are dominating.
  • Gucci, Balenciaga and Versace all have leading positions in the top 10.
  • See the full list below.

Luxury fashion is having a moment of glory.

Lyst’s global fashion research platform released its latest ranking of the world’s top fashion brands for the fourth quarter of 2018, and luxury brands like Gucci, Balenciaga and Versace dominated it.

This confirms recent data from The NPD Group, which showed that sales of luxury fashion dollars, particularly in the US market, have increased by 50%  in recent years, with substantial growth in sales of expensive clothing and footwear.

“The luxury market is evolving, new brands are attracting attention and online sales platforms are expanding the competitive landscape,” said Marshal Cohen, NPD Chief Industry Advisor, in a note accompanying the report.

To put the ranking together,  Lyst analyzed the online shopping behaviour of over five million consumers a month, monitoring the way these shoppers search, “browse” and purchase fashion items from 12,000 designers and online stores.  The report also takes into account Google’s search data and social media mentions and engagement statistics.

Find out which are the brands in the ranking below:

10. Burberry

Facebook / Burberry

Despite the skepticism towards its turnaround efforts, Lyst data shows that  Burberry’s “renewed look” is having a good response  among customers, the report says.

The brand has moved into a new management after longtime creative director Christopher Bailey left the company last year.

According to Lyst, Burberry has launched  limited edition capsule collections, exclusively available on Instagram and on the Chinese messaging app  WeChat . These have been exhausted in a few hours, the report said.

9. Valentino

A model wears a creation for Valentino’s autumn / winter 2019/20 collection presented in Paris, Wednesday 16 January 2019. AP Photo / Thibault Camus

Thanks to Gwyneth Paltrow , Valentino had a crackling start in the fourth quarter. The actress turned entrepreneur wore a Valentino dress for her wedding in September.

8. Vetements

Matches Fashion

Vetements continues to maintain its place in the top 10 list. He peaked in social media after  Tilda Swinton  wore a red Vetements dress for the Sitges Film Festival in Spain in October.

7. Stone Island

Facebook / Stone Island

Stone Island reappeared in the top 10 after a six-month break.

Research for Stone Island products  increased by 122%  in the most recent quarter, according to Lyst, and the brand was mentioned more than 327,000 times on social media.

6. Versace

Facebook / Versace

Versace came to the fore last year after being bought by Michael Kors, now Capri Holdings, for $ 2.12 billion.

Capri said it now  plans to grow Versace revenues from around $ 808 million to $ 2 billion , expand its market from 200 to 300 stores and increase its range of shoes and accessories.

5. Fendi

Fendi Mania Capsule Collection launch event at Fendi on October 16, 2018 in Beverly Hills, California. Getty / Stefanie Keenan

In October, Fendi launched its Fendi Mania capsule collection, which presents a  mashup of the Fendi / Fila logo,designed by an Instagram artist.

The launch events of this collection, which took place in nine cities, turned on social media, Lyst wrote, creating great interest for the entire brand.

4. Moncler

Facebook / Moncler

Not only did Moncler take fourth place on the list, but his luxury down jackets were also included in Lyst’s more fashionable product lists, both male and female.

3. Balenciaga

Rich Polk / Getty Images for GOAT

The ugly sneakers are still in vogue,  which means that Balenciaga continues to shine.

The brand ended up in the limelight in December, after  Michelle Obama  wore a $ 4,000 thigh-high pair of Balenciaga boots for an event in New York to promote her new book.

2. Off-White

Facebook / Off-White

Off-White continues to be one of the most interesting brands on the Internet. Founded in 2012, this high-end treetwear label  is the brainchild of Virgil Abloh, who is also  artistic director of Louis Vuitton Man.

His Nike x Off-White The Ten series was the collaboration of the hottest 2018 sneakers, according to Lyst.

1. Gucci

Gucci handbags in a shop at Brookfield Place, Manhattan. Business Insider / Jessica Tyler

Gucci reigned supreme at the end of 2018 after occupying the first places in the ranking in previous parts of the year.

His recent success has been  attributed to creative director Alessandro Michele,  who has led the brand since 2015. Michele seems to have a deep  awareness of what young people want,  including bright and eclectic colors and eye-catching, flashy patterns,  which come well on Instagram,  wrote Business Insider in July after visiting one of its stores.

Between October and December, more than six million buyers searched for Gucci accessories. They have become among the most powerful products in fashion, according to Lyst.

 

Sara Dal Monte

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NYFW OFFICIAL SCHEDULE / ALL SHOWS

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OFFICIAL NYFW SCHEDULE / ALL SHOWS

(Plus year-round New York fashion events.)

 

This season, FWO is offering free registration for independent showcases. As with all registrations, this does not guarantee admission. You should still be registering with other producers, and be looking for ticketed opportunities (see below) that guarantee admission.

Filter by:
ALL SHOWS | BUY TICKETS | LIVE STREAMS

credit by Fashion Week Online 

 

Sara Dal Monte

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GUCCI LAUNCHES THE HIGH LINE OF JEWELRY

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GUCCI

HORTUS DELICIARUM IS SHOWN IN A NEW PARIS BOUTIQUE IN PLACE VENDÔME

 

Gucci’s bringing some sparkle to Paris’s 1st arrondissement with the brand’s first foray into the world of high jewelry.

The new Hortus Deliciarum line, which is influenced by the colorful and multi-faceted visions of Alessandro Michele, contains over 200 pieces (many of them one-of-a-kind). The collection’s inspiration stems from interpretations surrounding the mythical gardens of Eden, Arcadia, and Xanadu, while also drawing from the organic hues and symbolism of nature.

GUCCI

imageGUCCI

Three primary themes guide the narrative of Hortus Deliciarum: eternal love, the animal kingdom, and solitaires. Tiger, lion, and Ouroboros serpent iconography make appearances alongside pink and blue sapphires, white diamonds, yellow beryls, mandarin garnets, honey-colored topaz, pearlescent opals, and glittering aquamarines. According to Michele, the gemstones are purposefully mismatched in honor of the spirit of imperfection, therefore creating a sense of “dis-cordant symmetry.” Gucci also pulled from a variety of opulent, historical artistic movements, such as Rococo, Baroque, and Georgian, to cultivate a sense of luxury and refinement in every brooch, necklace, and ring. The collection is an ode not only to Gucci’s rich history of imagery and ingenuity, but also Michele’s uninhibited maximalist aesthetic and inventiveness.

GUCCI

GUCCI

The line will be sold at a brand new 16 Place Vendôme location, which situates the boutique amongst some of the finest jewelry retailers in the world. The interior of the store exudes a muted, old-Hollywood sort of glam: dark-panelled wooden display cases are paired with luxurious, turquoise green satin upholstery, which allows the color palette of the jewels to speak for itself.

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INTERIOR OF GUCCI’S NEW BOUTIQUE

GUCCI
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GUCCI

Along with creating the covetable collection of high jewelry, Gucci has committed itself to responsibly sourcing the gold it utilizes. Additionally, many of the materials used in Gucci’s collection are ethically sourced with the aid of initiatives such as the Kimberly Process and the Kering Responsible Gold Framework, which strive to combat corruption and inequality in the mineral mining industry, underscoring the fact that luxury doesn’t have to be at an environmental and social cost.

GUCCI

Gucci Hortus Deliciarum high jewelry is now available at the 16 Place Vendôme boutique.

 

 

Sara Dal Monte

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FENDI SHOW S/S 2020 MENSWEAR MILAN

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THE FENDI SHOW

 

Silvia Venturini Fendi Location : Villa Reale A change of location for the Fendi Menswear 2020 Spring/Summer collection, marking the beginning of the post Karl Lagerfeld era. A new atmosphere with a show that takes place in the shadowy gardens of the Villa Reale. An outdoor show that revisits gardening uniform with elegance and in the DNA of the label. Collection: the collection is an ode to nature, the materials are light with cut-out, bucolic prints. Silvia Venturini Fendi chose to invite the Italian director Luca Guadagnino this season, who collaborated on the graphics of the prints and also on the music and the setting of the show. The clothes are decorated with multiple removable pockets. The trousers are split at the ankle. A functional wardrobe that sparingly combines a sartorial spirit and workwear. We see the craftsmanship of the Roman label through plaited leather sweaters lined with fur. The colour palette is soft and soothing, composed of shades of green, chestnut, beige and khakis… We find emblematic Péquin stripes, but also stylized flowers on cotton or silk shirts, on overcoats and on featherweight parkas. The jacket combines with Bermuda shorts for a chic and casual look. Long tunics with graphic patterns evoke a summer atmosphere and Luca Guadagnino’s childhood memories in Ethiopia. Note: the shoes made in collaboration with Moonstar, the woven raffia sunhat with FF imprinted and the large transparent nylon shopping bags, or the iconic Peekaboo or baguette bag remade in the spirit of collection, braided leather.. Featuring interviews with Silvia Venturini Fendi, Luca Guadagnino and Serge Brunschwing. Silvia Venturini Fendi: I wanted to recapture a sense of harmony, the same harmony that is given to me through nature. Personally, I am lucky to have a house in the countryside where I go whenever I have the time. One of my passions is gardening, growing my vegetable garden and roses. I asked Luca Gaudagnino to be my guest artist and therefore we really wanted to transport you to a dream or even a film and I think it is a beautiful place. Luca Guadagnino: The civilisation of gardening, the uniforms and Japan, all these elements sprung very quickly and simply between her and I. We then gave each other different ideas and references, from Bruce Chatwin to Ryūichi Sakamoto, to the world of uniform in the Japanese gardening culture. Serge Brunschwing : You have seen that it is amazing. Everything that the Fendi ateliers are capable of making and composing, small pieces of silk and fur. Put it all together and it is incredibly beautiful. We see a piece of work between two artists, Silvia and Luca, who know each other very well, who get along wonderfully, who composed together in this garden and this ode to nature. Show music (Only for use in context of the show, covered by the right to information)

 

Sara Dal Monte

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Your Foolproof Recipe for Holiday-Dressing Success? Red Velvet

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Imaan Hammam in a crushed-velvet slip dress by Jonathan Simkhai and dangle earrings by Irene Neuwirth.
Photographed by Mikael Jansson, Vogue, November 2018

 

“The fashion instinct for red: It’s special . . . it’s a matter of temperament, looks, or both . . . ,” noted Vogue in 1963. A celebratory, look-at-me color, red was historically associated with passion, privilege, and power. Louis XIV, for example, famously wore scarlet heels and enacted sumptuary laws preventing those not in royal favor from following suit. Over time, the bold hue became linked to the festive holiday season via a certain cheery fellow with a beard “as white as the snow” and a suit as red as a . . . Coca-Cola label? Speaking to NPR, Arielle Eckstut, coauthor of The Secret Language of Color, explained that in 1931 the beverage company commissioned an illustrator “to create a Santa Claus” for promotional purposes. The artist drew one dressed in scarlet and with a physique that aligned with Clement Clarke Moore’s depiction of the “right jolly old elf” in his famous 1823 poem A Visit From St. Nicholas, which is now better known as The Night Before Christmas.

Combine red with velvet, a fabric with snob appeal (just look at Medici portraits or Francisco de Goya’s famous “Red Boy”), and you’ve got a winning, and upscale, combination that rises to the occasion. Like the cake that borrows its name, red velvet is a tried-and-true recipe for holiday dressing. The proof is in the pages of Vogue. Here, we track the trend as it was addressed by designers as diverse as Cristóbal Balenciaga and Marc Jacobs.

 

Sara Dal Monte

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The SS19 shows at Milan Fashion Week

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THE  MFW

The temporary absence of a Gucci show – which will be presented in Paris – opens the door to a renewed Milanese fashion week, which includes special events of important residences and activities as the most anticipated shows in the city.

Moncler unveiled the second chapter of his Genius initiative on Wednesday, September 19th. The showcase is a novelty for Moncler, which debuted in its last direction in a special event before the Milanese shows, bringing together several international designers to create eight capsule collections in collaboration with the brand. Let’s see if you have a chance to see if Pierpaolo Piccioli, Craig Green, Simone Rocha, Hiroshi Fujiwara, Palm Angels and Kei Ninomiya – whose Moncler collections are falling after the other – will return for a renewed stint.

Emporio Armani  missed the men’s program in June in favor of a co-show, which took place on Thursday, September 20th at 9:00 pm. The exhibition will feature a special exhibition on the show, which follows the previous one-off events of Emporio Armani in Paris and London. Lately, Giorgio Armani has been honest in changing his traditional show formats and making an impact with the new generations. He presented the haute couture show in July for  Armani Privé  in the observing the backstage: “People do not know the difference between couture, prêt-à-porter and sportswear.”

Gucci did not perform in Milan. Alessandro Michele brought the circus to the streets, presenting the first Monday in Paris. But he has no intention of renouncing the first day of the Milan program, which traditionally developed Gucci. Instead of the show, in collaboration with The Michael Clark Company. The dancer and choreographer set up a dance show for the evening, followed by Gucci with the club boys gathered in London in Milan. Clark has already participated in the short film by Gucci  The Performers: Act VI  for  GQ .

 

Prada  has found its new rhythm, compared to three percent last year. “Today the results of this transformation are visible and supported by many positive signs of the market,” declared the managing director Patrizio Bertelli in a statement. “We are constantly working to remodel the Prada Group”.


 

 


Sara Dal Monte

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