Gabriela Hearst in her latest show of hers for her namesake label, and the last before debuting with her night job as Chloé’s new creative director in Paris, Hearst redid the ideas of the 11th century philosopher and mystic, Saint Hildegard of Bingen. The result was a classy and composed collection that managed to be contemporary and cool, unveiled on Tuesday night in New York. Hearst smartly juxtaposed the clothes in a suitably gritty show video, shot in a light-filled riverside warehouse with corrugated iron walls underneath the Williamsburg Bridge, in a lush piece of direction by Alexandre de Betak.
Each look expressed a new maturity and conviction in Hearst’s work, which Hildegard – an abbess who corresponded with popes and emperors – would surely have appreciated.
Opening with flowing cloaks; long knitted dresses and some excellent trench coats – finished with shoulder knots or hoods. For day, showing stylish Swiss lace frocks; Aran sweater cocktail dresses or precise leather macramé looks worn over polo necks. For evening, flowing satin dresses over flared white pants or snazzy thick-ribbed knit cocktails all looked great.
“St. Hildegard was a composer, poet, philosopher, mystic, linguist, botanist, and medical theorist. If she were born a man we would all know her name as we know Leonardo da Vinci’s. Her visions that started at an early age began her spiritual journey that can only be made with true passion. She saw that the answer was in the Green Power of Nature,” argued Hearst in her program notes.
After seeing her 12-tear-old daughter Mia placing flowers in her art book, and then carefully replicating them, Hearst used these as prints – “knitted and crocheted with two non-for-profit women empowering co-ops we work with in Uruguay and Bolivia.” The results were some great woolen ensembles and charming skirts and tanks.
Mia’s prints were also the basis for the patterns in the Swiss lace and leather macramé looks, climaxing with classy town coats, whose lower halves morphed into lace. Cool ethnic blanket looks, from patchwork ponchos to country weekend coats referenced Hearst’s youth in Uruguay, adding high color to the collection.
A true polyglot, Hildegard wrote three volumes of theology; two volumes on natural medicines and cures; invented her own language and composed sacred monophony – there are more surviving chants by her than any composer from the Middle Ages.
The designer’s soundtrack was an original composition too. By Uruguayan artist Juan Campodonico, adding a quick step beat to the show video, wihich ended with Hildegard Hearst taking an extended tour down the massive warehouse.
Sauntering out through the battered doors onto the East River, in a great symbolic exit, as she sets off on the next stage of her career – conquering Paris.
ANNA SUI INTERPRETS WITH POP THE DESIRE FOR RENAISSANCE AND LIGHTNESS TO GET OUT OF THIS MOMENT WITH JOY
Anna Sui relives the legendary 60s with the carefree atmosphere and the music of flower children, of a cultural and musical renaissance that gave birth to the rebirth of humanity in those years. Even today the message is clear, there is a desire to rediscover the emotion of life, freedom and lightheartedness.
Carefully chosen pop-paisley dresses and great picnic dresses worn with matching printed tights. All with a touch of whimsy and extravagance that he associates with Sui – from the faux fur coat with a big cat print and hat paired with bright psychedelic Navajo coats.
The cast dances in front of a fabulous backdrop of circus fair stars and planets, painted by Sarah Oliphant, to the tune of George Harrison’s sitar-infused Flower Power pop soundtrack.
When it gets dark, Sui’s mermaids hit nightclubs in micro-sequined trouser suits or flirty lace dresses, trimmed with river gambler laces.
“As we wait” on pause “for the new world to emerge from this pandemic, my mind is a whirlwind of vibrant worldviews right in front of us – I can’t stop thinking about that” black and white in color ” Moment. The limbo we live in will become psychedelic, exuberant with colors and patterns: it will be Phantasmadelic! “Enthused Sui in his notes on the program.
Aided by an excellent cast of a quintet of young veterans – Hanne Gaby Odiele, Lara Park, Issa Lish, Dilone and the perfectly sulky Cristina Piccone – all perfectly composed by Pat McGrath.
Sui easily had one of the best collections and videos in last season’s largely virtual New York fashion season in September. She just had another one in the current fashion week.
After having dressed Lady Gaga for the oath of President of the United States of America Joe Biden. American fashion designer Daniel Roseberry presented on Monday an unusually surreal collection for the historic house, opening the haute couture season in Paris.
A season whose 28 shows and presentations will take place entirely online, so the week began with a show video of four models enjoying couture fittings inside the house’s Place de Vendôme headquarters.
“I want to make an alternative couture house,” explained Roseberry in his program notes. He certainly lived up to his ambition with this dramatic and fantastical Spring/ Summer 2021 collection of couture – the greatest laboratory of high-end fashion.
Take his beautiful Madonna who appeared in a golden zippered black sheath dress with attached golden metal halo, cradling a gold metal infant Jesus suckling on a single golden breast. While his blonde, Elsa Schiaparelli-lookalike emoted in a golden metal wig, and a divinely cut column, whose V-neck was trimmed in dense clusters of jewels and golden teeth.
Roseberry loves volume – in case you were on another planet, he attired Gaga in a 13-foot-wide red silk faille skirt for her rendition of the Star-Spangled Banner in Washington – and whipped up huge clouds and candy floss shapes of silk satin to swaddle his moody models.
Though this was also a boldly body-con concept collection: from the burnished leather mini sheathes laced at the side and cut with the torso of a pro bodybuilding champion; or her pink sequined party frock with the shoulders of an Olympic weightlifter. All the way to a metallic gold torso tank with diamond nipple rings; worn by a model in a golden metal mask. Everything donned with immense pride by the models in this video entitled 231 Seconds, for its length.
Beginning his lookbook and ending his video with the black carbon-like pneumatic drill tummy of a torso finished with a humungous silk bow in shocking pink.
“Here, the fantasy isn’t princess dresses or polite garments; here, the fantasy is within. These are clothes that make you aware of the fact of your body, that make you think about how you move through the world. Elsa Schiaparelli also made clothes that torqued the body, but her intentions were never macabre; instead, she encouraged a childlike, un-neurotic exploration of the human form. Hers were garments meant to celebrate the joy of peacocking, the joy of showing off,” argued Roseberry in his program.
A key element in the Schiaparelli DNA was always the Italian designer’s bizarrely sculptural jewelry, and Daniel had plenty of new ideas in that department. A key Schiaparelli signifier – the golden padlock – really got a work-over; blown up into a chunky minaudiere, or sewn onto multiple patch pockets of carpenter’s pants.
Roseberry revamped Dr Marten-style bovver boots into thigh boots with three-inch thick platform soles and golden metal toes. Then had them worn underneath boxing shorts.
Plus his nine-inch earrings were something else – an extended golden finger reaching down to a tooth whose root was a black pearl. One chic witch even sprouted golden tentacles from her fingers, which pretended to scratch the camera. Earrings were also literally copies of ears, though made in gold and perforated the better to let diamanté bangles dangle from them.
This collection marks his third for the house, whose owner Italian fashion billionaire Diego della Valle has churned through several couturiers in recent years. The hyper inventive and unapologetic Roseberry, however, looks to have staying power. So, expect a long American residency in Place Vendôme.
Just over a decade ago, when the world was reeling in the aftermath of the Great Recession, Jil Sander, the German designer whose uncompromising approach to minimalist luxury had defined a certain kind of soft-power dressing for ambitious women, swooped in to offer much needed palliative care.
Joining forces with Uniqlo, the Japanese fast-fashion giant, Ms. Sander rethought her special brand of high-minded basics with a less high-numbered price. The result became one of the most successful, and unexpected, mass-market/designer collaborations up to that point. It was one based less on momentary buzz and influencers than on solving problems, like how clothes can help get you through the day. Called +J, it ran for five seasons, gave Uniqlo instant cred in the West and was briefly revived in 2014 as a greatest hits line.
Now, as the world reels in the throes of another crisis, it is back.
And as it turns out, Ms. Sander, a 76-year-old from Hamburg who never played the social media or celebrity game, who is not on Instagram, who had an exhausting Hamletian relationship with high fashion (she left and returned to her namesake company twice after her initial departure), who has been essentially absent from fashion for the last six years, who missed the whole Kardashian moment — who many Gen Y and Zers may not even know — may be the ideal designer for this mid-#MeToo, social justice, Covid-19, climate crisis time.
She may, in fact, have the answer to the question that has been bedeviling not just fashion but all of us who have had to pull ourselves out of bed and the slough of despond to negotiate life since lockdown began: How do we dress, not necessarily for the world that comes next, but to face the world we are in?
The first thing to know: It does not involve sweatpants.
“I think that radical down-dressing is a drainer,” Ms. Sander said over the phone from Germany, where she has been stuck since February. (She is not a fan of Zoom.)
“I am a modernist, and believe in mapping the future,” she said. “I am stupefied by the nostalgic turn fashion continues to take. Dressing in yesterday’s styles depresses our capacity to deal with present problems. Not making an effort in the morning will slow down your day and disorient you. If we want to change the world, we have to keep renewing ourselves.”
She has been practicing what she preaches since she left fashion (or at least the public stage of fashion) six years ago for personal reasons. She took time off to garden — she has created a floral refuge in her country place outside of Hamburg inspired by the Sissinghurst gardens in England — spearheaded a multimedia retrospective of her career at the Angewandte Kunst museum in Frankfurt, as well as a book, and has been learning to cook. And though Ms. Sander and Uniqlo had been in various talks over the years, she had not felt moved to actually work on a new line until she felt she had something meaningful to say.
“I never stopped designing in my head,” she said. “Now I felt ready. I wanted to react to disposable fashion. I believe in designs I would wear myself. This has been the driving energy since my beginnings, when I found nothing to perform with as a business woman.”
(“Perform with” may be a bit of translation awkwardness, but it is also an accurate characterization of how we use clothes in life.)
Though Ms. Sander founded her company in 1968 and first showed in Paris in 1975, it was in the 1980s and ’90s that she really came into her own, offering an alternative to the big-shouldered, big-gold-buttoned brassiness of the go-go decade. Women gravitated toward the deceptive simplicity of her clothes, which married extreme architecture with extreme materiality so that each garment had an internal strength, and every line communicated purpose, forethought and empathy for the person within.
She was, effectively, Old Celine before Old Celine. Her clothes did not respond to, or even acknowledge, trends. Both her own line and her Uniqlo work were not meant for the moment — or for anyone desperate to show they were of the moment — but for the long term.
That’s part of what makes her clothes work so well now. Who wants something of this moment? This moment sucks. You want something that is beyond the moment. Above the moment.
At first Uniqlo wanted the safety of 10 “best pieces.” Ms. Sander said she argued for a whole collection, though not the bloated kind runway-goers have become used to, with 60 or 70 looks. Rather, she argued for a reduced-to-its-essence, all-you-need-and-nothing-else kind (excess stuff being the last thing anyone wants).
She started in January and went to Japan in February, though she has been working via videoconference since then. The result is a tightly edited collection of 25 pieces for men and 32 for women in a limited color palette (black, white, navy, burgundy) that fit together like an interlocking puzzle with no unnecessary parts.
There are crisp but non-constricting white cotton collarless shirts and black tuxedo button-ups that are best with the ties left louchely undone. A slouchy black pantsuit and neat collarless navy jacket. Thin, body-caressing knits. And a panoply of fantastic puffers with face-framing collars and sculpted silhouettes, as well as hoods that can be drawn up and turtled into.
Though there are separate lines for men and women, they can be mixed and matched as desired. (People will desire.) The prices range from $49.90 for the shirts and sweaters to $249.90 for the cashmere-blend overcoats.
“To me, it seems less important to express your sex than to show by the way you dress that you respect yourself,” Ms. Sander said. “I wanted to define the body without restricting it, to focus on controlled volumes, rather than just oversize, so it feels generous.”
Her own favorite piece is a white silk turtleneck. Her aim, she said, was to make clothes that were “indispensable.” That’s kind of a radical idea in a world in which we have become increasingly used to the idea of clothes as throwaway items.
But then, to her, these are not just clothes. They are “symbols,” she said. “We need symbols, even of a vestimentary kind, that encourage us and suggest new beginnings.”
Whether this suggests the beginning of a whole new line or simply a guest appearance from a fashion deity, designed to jump-start us in a new direction for the looming new year, however, she would not say.
“… It is celebrated on November 25, the date that commemorates the brutal murder of the Mirabal sisters in 1960. The date also marks the 16 days of activism against gender violence that precede World Human Rights Day on December 10 …”
Women are amazing.You say nothing and they understand everything.
They say everything and you don’t understand anything.
This is how women have ruled the world since the beginning of time and from the beginning of time.
There are the simple ones, the sweetly naive ones, there are the complicated ones, indomitable like hurricanes.
Whatever nuance their character has, they are the ones who make the difference.
With their looks full of words, with their hearts full of bruises.
Yes, when a woman becomes a female it starts to make a difference.
You are not born a woman you become, charm, love, courage.
They are made of smiles that know how to swallow tears,
of silences where their deepest feelings scream and
of moments when they don’t want to be understood,
they just want to be loved.
With the right time and the right shoes they can do anything,
where do they find the strength? …
they are women …
is the strength to find them …
from a letter of
On the night Vice President-elect Kamala Harris made history, she recognized the long battle women had faced for the right to vote and to break into the highest ranks of American politics — and said that “every little girl watching” across the country now knows they can do so, too.
Harris was the fourth woman to appear on a major political party’s presidential ticket, following Democratic vice presidential nominee Geraldine Ferraro in 1984, Republican No. 2 Sarah Palin in 2008 and Democratic nominee Hillary Clinton in 2016. She is the first to win.
Harris recognized a new generation of women who cast their ballots in 2020, and remembered her mother, Shyamala Gopalan Harris, who immigrated to the United States from India as a young woman.
“I’m thinking about her and about the generations of women — Black women, Asian, White, Latina and Native American women — throughout our nation’s history who have paved the way for this moment tonight,” she said. “Women who fought and sacrificed so much for equality, liberty and justice for all, including the Black women, who are too often overlooked, but so often prove that they are the backbone of our democracy.”
“Tonight I reflect on their struggle, their determination, and the strength of their vision to see what can be, unburdened by what has been. And I stand on their shoulders,” Harris said. “And what a testament it is to Joe’s character that he had the audacity to break one of the most substantial barriers that exist in our country and select a woman as his vice president.”
From: Alessandro Sicuro Comunication
DEMERY JAYNE COLLECTION A NEW CONCEPT OF FASHION AND WEAR
When we talk about DJC we talk about Demery Jayne Collections, a new line of lingerie and swimwear for women, a story that starts, in fact, from an idea and also a dream of Demery Jayne.
This story and this project are the story of a very young company but determined to follow its style to the end and to do this it makes use of its team of professional figures with many years of experience in their respective fields of work. Demery is the brand’s first source of inspiration, as a model, as an inspiring muse and as a world traveler and in this path she met Stacy Christensen. Stacy is a professional expert in fashion, in particular lingerie and swimwear, she knows perfectly the product development phases, from color to model, papery as it used to be and CAD on the PC as it is done today, to style, obviously passing for choosing the best materials.
A glance was enough, some talks with Demery, we could say, and Stacy immediately developed a 16-piece pre-collection with three color variations: black, white and pink quartz.
The components that distinguish the style of the collection are all aesthetically inspired by that period of Italian history where nature, artistic and cinematographic culture during the 70s and 80s have greatly influenced fashion, costume, and trends.
The models of the Translusence collection, however, have many innovative and current components in their DNA, fundamental for the needs of a contemporary woman.
The winning idea of the collection is to show elegance without being excessive in terms of shades and shapes. The common thread that connects all these creations is the refinement but also the flexibility of the garment understood as an interpretation that each customer can give from time to time. In fact, many of the models, such as Hanelli, the swimsuit, were created for the swimming pool, the boat or the sea, but also for the trip, as shown in the images of New York taken by Alessandro Sicuro, you can use that piece with jeans or a skirt, so as to combine class and versatility. Even the Obsidian Intimate model, purely for underwear, can be worn instead of a shirt or an undershirt under the jacket, replacing the classic shirt that could sometimes make it look too formal.
We want to preserve all the style, class and femininity that can be seen from a different angle with a defusing touch of our Obsidian, with more grit and modernity. “Style and elegance have never been so versatile,” says the brand’s slogan. Exactly for this reason.
You can find our products in many stores but also via e-commerce and drop shipping because our marketing strategy is to carry out the first campaign in the United States and we have been doing it for months, months where we have started a web marketing program and Google AdWords, with the geolocation set in the main cities of the States. Of course Covid-19 was an unexpected event that nobody was waiting for and nobody wanted. And as we hope that every person and company can overcome this bad experience, we too are now working hard, also producing masks. We are in fact in the phase of entering the market, ready and determined to place ourselves at an increasingly high level of brand reputation and the perception of the brand itself by the public, on Facebook, Instagram but also with the photographic events that we have created at New York, Los Angeles, Paris, Florence and Milan. We are launching a 360 – degree editorial and image action, signed by Alessandro Sicuro Comunication. In fact, we trusted this company and its person in particular, as our Brand Strategist. We have just told you about the target of this mission, to touch with your hand just take a look at our Store.
After a marathon 13 days of online fashion shows and events – from French haute couture to Italian sportswear – it’s useful to take stock and consider what worked and what didn’t after the industry passed through the first purely digital summer fashion season in history.
Happy to report there were several genuine virtual fashion moments, along with plenty of salutary lessons to be learned for the future. Certainly, the experience of sitting stuck before their desks tops and screens made every editor only long to return to an actual show. Doubly so, when the images of an actual live show, Jacquemus’ Field of Dreams collection in a giant wheat field northeast of Paris, went viral, reminding the entire industry of how great fashion shows can be almost spiritual experiences.
However, despite ending the nearly two weeks with an aching back from peering endlessly at a desktop, it’s clear to most editors that the season has been a learning curve for every house. All of whom will exploit the digital possibilities that this July revealed: whether to brand build; prep an ad campaign; tease an audience; stimulate private customers, or simply to create a proper online showroom.
It all began in Paris with an off-calendar live video streaming of the backstage of Hermès menswear department on Sunday, July 5; and ended, more or less, with Missoni in Milan the afternoon of Friday; July 17. Then again not quite, since Valentino is planning a semi-live event in Rome tomorrow, and Christian Dior will present its cruise collection before friends and family in the main piazza of Lecce in Puglia on Thursday evening. So, who were the big winners, and losers, of the season? And which brands merited recognition for their digital ideas? Here are 10 picks; eight ‘dos’ and two ‘don’t’s.
Best use of live streaming – Gucci
This award has to go to Gucci, where Alessandro Michele, in a brilliant reversal of the restrictions of the lockdown, picked the house’s creative team as his cast. They may not have been gorgeous runway creatures, but they more than made up for that with their self-confidence, attitude and innate sense of style. Staged over almost 12 hours, from the making of to the denouement, the whole event bristled with iconoclastic imagination – from its grand location in the storied Palazzo Sacchetti to the retro-pop MTV graphics to the brainy cast. No wonder they called it The Final Act of a Fairy Tale.
Best video – Christian Dior
Definitely the award goes to Matteo Garrone’s stupendous video for Le Mythe Dior, shot in ancient ruins around Rome. Dior did get clobbered on social media for the lack of any models of color in the video. But the fantasy of nymphs discovering tiny stockman versions of the latest Dior ready-to-wear, brought to them by two Dior hotel porters was an instant classic of surrealist cinema.
Best phygital fashion – Ermenegildo Zegna XXX
No designer tapped more into the potential of blending live with recorded than Alessandro Sartori’s livestreaming show that climaxed on the roof of Zegna’s historic headquarters overlooking the Italian Alps. Top-shelf tailoring meets classy staging.
Best shows in a box – JW Anderson and Loewe
The only designer to put a great deal of effort into his invitations was Jonathan Anderson both at his own brand at Loewe. Sending out a fabric covered file full of sketches, looks, dried flowers and unlikely fabrics for JW Anderson; and a whole dossier with cutouts; influences; and even a mini 45 RPM record. And the result was two very cunning methods to make a creative statement and to tempt an audience with some eye-catching new clothes.
Best indie brand clip – Davi Paris
Not much cash but acres of imagination in this clifftop frolic which encapsulates the freedom of hanging out with your young mates in early summer. French insouciance at its best.
Most subtle display of clothes – Juun.J
Juun.J has been staging tremendous shows in Paris for several seasons; so it was great to see the brand pull off an elegiac black and white video of his nation’s capital – SeoulSoul. Juun.J is the ghost of Gianfranco Ferré meets Rick Owens; the most dynamic designer in the most dynamic culture in Asia – South Korea.
Best statement on the zeitgeist – Versace
Donatella invited UK rapper AJ Tracey to stage a livestream performance in her video clip. And the result was a timely statement on today’s key issues – Black Lives Matter and people’s empowerment. And, the clothes looked marvelous too.
Best recognition of artisanal Italy – Santoni and Tod’s
The backbone of Italian design is its remarkable artisans. Few of whom fashion editors and VIPs ever meet in Milan or Rome. Certain houses shot films in their home regions to better express their DNA and what distinguishes each of them. Like two great footwear brands from Le Marche – Santoni and Tod’s.
Sometimes it’s just plain refreshing to see a well-put-together product video, where one can appreciate the innate quality of what’s on display. Case in point: master shoemaker Santoni, with an admirable clip called “Origini, An Emotional Narration.” Set in Le Marche, the ruggedly proud region on the Adriatic halfway down the Italian boot, and an ideal location to highlight the patina of a great pair of crocodile loafers, or woven leather sneakers as models marched on an almost lunar rocky shore. Voyaging inland to the Apennines, the jaggedly cut green valleys were an ideal backdrop for pewter-hued moccasins or superb loafers.
“I’m trying to make the DNA of Tod’s my own… Riffing on ’70s jet set,” explained Chiapponi, walking through the all-white buildings; from design studio to research department to workshop, capturing the first phases of the creative process. From moulds to mood boards; from yarns to craftspeople. All the way to a photo shoot where Italian models
Best pure fashion statement – Plan C
For pure design chops our favourite statement was by Plan C, and some remarkable patchwork assemblage dresses with images of mountain cabins; electric pylons, soaring peaks and overgrown meadows untouched by any farmer in lockdown. Exactly the images seen in a lyrical video Plan C designer Carolina Castiglioni shot in the foothills of the Alps.
“Everyone is a landscape,” commented the designer, who appeared in her own video as a model. Add in some simple and refined flowing summer picnic dresses in windbreaker stripes and a buttoned-up, funnel neck trench in a naïve print. The result: another great collection from the rising star of Milan fashion.
Beautiful is not necessarily best – Maison Margiela
The house of Margiela presented a series of color-saturated videos over several days during the season, many of which had a wonderful sense of refinement. However, their techie Pointillist style meant it was very hard to see any actual clothes, or indeed understand what John Galliano was trying to express.
Laziest effort – Dries Van Noten
This award has to go to Dries Van Noten, whose clip of a young lad mock-drumming inside a strobe-lit set was video indolence par excellence. Godfrey Deeny
With deep sincerity, the Creative Director Alessandro Michele shares with the Gucci
Community the pages written in his home in Rome during the last few months.
ROME MARCH 29, 2020 -‐ WE HAVE DISCOVERED SMALL THINGS
In these days of confinement, in a suspended time that we struggle to imagine free, I try to ask myself about the meaning of my actions. It is a vital and urgent question for me, which forces me to listen subtly, to stop carefully. It is the attempt to name, with the precision of love, my fears and my desires. It is the opportunity to challenge the aphasia that every trauma imposes. After all, the tragedy we are experiencing is opening up new spaces for reflection. We could never have imagined that we could feel so tied to life by a bond of tremor and excruciating tenderness. We could never have thought of recontacting, in such a profound way, the fragility of our creatural destiny. Our need for reciprocity. We found out little thing. A miracle of nothing. Above all, we understood that we had gone oversized. Our unscrupulous actions set fire to the house we live in. We believed ourselves to be other than nature, more clever and omnipotent. We have tamed, dominated and injured her. We unleashed Prometheus, and buried Pan. How much arrogance has made us lose our sisterhood with butterflies, flowers, trees and roots. How much unscrupulous greed has made us lose understanding and care, connection and belonging. We earthquake the sacredness of life, forget about our being species. In the end, we lost our breath.
ROME APRIL 7, 2020 – ON WHAT WE WOULD NOT LIKE TO COME BACK EQUAL
Today that the devastation has found us unprepared, we must be able to reflect on what we would not like to return the same. Because the biggest risk, for our tomorrow, is to abdicate any real and necessary discontinuity. Unfortunately, our history is studded with crises that have taught us nothing. Of economic collapses and social devastations that have been faced by imposing the same recipes that had generated them. Of wounds that have not had the ability to regenerate thought. Of mourning that we have not been able to live to change ourselves and our relationships. This crisis therefore represents a fundamental test case. Try in the sense of pain, fatigue, danger. But also in the sense of evaluation and judgment. Because it is precisely in pain that we have the opportunity to look critically at our recent past. To the list of debts, misunderstandings, out of tune, errors. To missteps and unconsciousness. The deafening lack of thoughts that we didn’t have the courage to formulate. This present therefore gives each of us important responsibilities. Everyone can exercise them, with respect to their role and their actions, to contribute to a constellation of molecular and widespread changes. In my own small way, I urgently feel the need to change many things in my job. After all, the inclination to change has always characterized my professional life, marking it with a natural and joyful creative restlessness. But this crisis is as if it had amplified this transformative urgency, making it no longer deferrable.
ROME APRIL 27, 2020 – THE MOTIVE OF A CHOICE
The change that I imagine first of all passes through the ability to recontact the deeper reasons that pushed me to enter the world of fashion. I feel the need to renew a pact, purifying the essential from the superfluous. I feel the need to come back, in an authentic way, to the motive for a choice. For that set of reasons that built my going. Over time, I understood that these motifs have different names and intensities, but they all fatally gather around the same urgency: the possibility of telling. It is this possibility, so ancestral and powerful, that has always allowed me to build expressive passages, to give space to that inexpressible nucleus that agitates my dreams, to celebrate the nostalgia of imperfection, to pay homage to the beauty that blooms in form in shape. It is this possibility that allows me to grasp, with infinite bites, the daily love of existence.
Paris Fashion Week Fall 2020: See All the Celebrities Attending Shows and Events
It’s here! After most of another jam-packed fashion month has passed us by, Paris Fashion Week Fall 2020 has finally arrived. And while many editors, models, and insiders are positively exhausted, there’s something about being in the city of light that reminds the entire industry why they do it all. So far, we’ve seen shows like Dior and Off-White create major moments, and there’s so much more to come before Chanel, Miu Miu, and Louis Vuitton make for a jam-packed final day on March 3. At all of the biggest shows, we can be sure to see supermodels like Gigi Hadid and Kaia Gerber among the cast, in addition to stars from around the world (and a bunch of chic French girls) filling the front rows before heading out to celebrate at some of the chicest events.
Looking to feel like you’re part of the action, or trying to make sense of it all in between a packed schedule? Consider this your cheat sheet to all the most exciting celebrities attending shows and events at Paris Fashion Week Fall 2020. From the ultracool audience at Saint Laurent to all the hottest parties, check back here over the next week to see all the ways fashion and pop culture are bound to align.
Since 2014, Off-White’s runway shows have become a premiere site for inventive contemporary fashion. With Virgil Abloh at the helm, the brand has used its platform to redefine youth culture and streetwear. Known for its $1,000 sweatshirts and ironic, quotation marked branding, Off-White’s past collections have created the perfect mix of high fashion and ready-to-wear items. With the newest collection slated to take the stage at Paris Fashion Week tomorrow, Abloh’s runway is bound to impress.
The Off-White show on February 27, 2020 at 1:00 p.m Paris
TOM FORD IN LA
Designer Tom Ford, a favorite of Hollywood’s top stars, helped kick off Oscar weekend on Friday night moving his runway show featuring looks for fall 2020 to southern California for one of the fashion season’s most anticipated events.
With a star-laden front row boasting Renee Zellweger, Jennifer Lopez and Miley Cyrus, Ford showed an extensive collection of women’s and men’s wear rendered in sultry, sensuous fabrics such as black lace and deep shades of satin.
Sticking mostly to solids but for a few florals and animal prints, the famed designer’s collection recalled the free-spirited, casual looks of the late 1960s and early 1970s, in a possible nod to the hit film, “Once Upon a Time in Hollywood.”
The Quentin Tarantino film set in the summer of 1969 is a strong contender at Sunday’s Academy Awards and is expected to bring A-list actor Brad Pitt his first Oscar. Zellweger is also favored to win for her star turn as Judy Garland in “Judy.”
New York’s semi-annual fashion week kicked off on Thursday, but with an earlier-than-usual date of Feb. 9, Hollywood’s Academy Awards threaten to divert at least some of the limelight – and star power – from the New York shows.
Ford, who is also head of the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA), is no stranger to the film world himself.
Besides dressing many of Hollywood’s top actors and actresses for the red carpet, he has directed films “A Single Man” and “Nocturnal Animals.”
On Friday night Ford dressed female and male models in wide lapelled jackets topping unstructured trousers.
In keeping with the late 60s vibe, blazers were worn over t-shirts and paired with patchwork denim or drawstring pants. Loose-fitting women’s tops rendered in natural fibers were sleeveless and seemingly carefree.
For men, there were sexy satin or suede suits in colors popular 50 years ago such as deep rust or wine. The hippy esthetic even got a nod via a lavender print jacket.
Ford ended the show, which was also attended by baseball superstar Alex Rodriguez and actress Kate Hudson, with a series of gowns that suggested Bohemian chic, some backless, others featuring flowing black lace or tiered fringe.
Pitti Uomo 2020: the men’s fashion event returns to shine in Florence, also talking about the environment.
This morning at Palazzo Vecchio to open this edition a video message from Prince Charles of England dedicated to the importance of defending nature, the environment also in manufacturing practices.
PRINCE CARLO – The heir to the United Kingdom throne spoke as patron of the Campaign for Wool, a global project to support the use of pure wool obtained from organic cultivation. The usual inauguration at Palazzo Vecchio was Mayor Nardella, the President of the Florence Center for Italian Fashion, Antonella Mansi, the President of Pitti Immagine, Claudio Marenzi, the President of Ice, Carlo Maria Ferro, the Undersecretary for Foreign Affairs Ivan Scalfarotto, the president of Confindustria, Vincenzo Boccia.
VIP GUESTS – Among the VIP guests at the fair, the sailor Mauro Pelaschier (Stand Slam, Wednesday 8), Stefano De Martino (from Gazzarrini, Wednesday 8), Elisabetta Gregoraci (stand Us Polo Assn., Wednesday 8) are expected, Vittorio Brumotti (Lotto Leggenda, Wednesday 8), Elisabetta Canalis (from Pollini, Wednesday 8), Pupo (from Jke, Thursday 9).
IL FIORINO D’ORO – the prestigious prize of the City of Florence will be awarded today at 14:00, in the Sala of Elements of Palazzo Vecchio. to François-Henri Pinault, president, and CEO of the Kering group. Mayor Dario Nardella will hand over the award to the French entrepreneur and financier who controls luxury brands such as Gucci, Saint Laurent, Bottega Veneta, Balenciaga, Boucheron, Alexander McQueen, and Stella McCartney.
Milan Fashion Week
From its newly balanced schedule to creative director Daniel Lee’s next trendsetting show for Bottega Veneta, this is Vogue’s guide to MFW spring/summer 2020. Image credits: Getty Images/Shutterstock.
Hot on the heels of New York’s schedule shake-up and London’s public-facing shows, Milan Fashion Week spring/summer 2020 (September 17 to 23) is making a case for parity, sharing out the most sought-after schedule slots among the designers in favour of a more balanced calendar.
“A strong spirit of sharing and synergy has drawn up a more balanced calendar to give due weight to all of the fashion weekdays and thereby benefit the entire system and the city of Milan,” noted a statement from Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana (CNMI) in July. The decision came after a roundtable discussion involving high-profile brands such as Gucci (above), Fendi, Max Mara, Giorgio Armani, Prada, Marni, Salvatore Ferragamo and Bottega Veneta.
Speaking of Bottega Veneta, ever since creative director Daniel Lee’s (above) appointment in July 2018, there has been a non-stop buzz surrounding the luxury Italian brand and its plans for MFW spring/summer 2020; Lee’s show is expected to be the biggest talking point of the week.
The British designer, who graduated from Central Saint Martins and previously held roles at Maison Margiela, Balenciaga and Donna Karan before joining Céline, said at the time of joining: “Maintaining the ingrained codes of the house, craftsmanship, quality and sophistication, I look forward to evolving what has gone before, while contributing a new perspective and modernity.”
Lee’s Bottega Veneta spring/summer 2020 show will undoubtedly embody the celebratory tone expected from MFW this season; the schedule is packed full of anniversaries and parties, as a slew of new names are welcomed and a spotlight is shone on sustainability and inclusivity.
Versace will be one of the most sought-after shows of MFW spring/summer 2020 (8pm, September 20) after Capri Holdings completed its highly publicised merger and bought the fashion house for US$2.1 billion in 2018.
Other can’t-miss shows include Massimo Giorgetti’s MSGM (above), celebrating its 10th year (11:30am, September 21), Salvatore Ferragamo (9:30am, September 21) and Jil Sander (8pm, September 18).
All eyes, however, will be on Bottega Veneta (6:30pm, September 19), as former creative director Tomas Maier’s successor Daniel Lee delivers his hotly-anticipated spring/summer 2020 collection. So far, Lee has wowed the fashion world with his modern spin on the Italian heritage brand with its sell-out shoes and accessories. The question is: will his sophomore collection live up to expectations?
In the new egalitarian spirit of MFW, Prada (4pm, September 18) and Gucci (4pm, September 22) will have shared custody of the opening and closing slots, with Giorgio Armani as Saturday’s main (4pm, September 21). In the name of maintaining balance and harmony, Gucci will open and Giorgio Armani will close in the following season. Notably missing from the schedule is Roberto Cavalli. Paul Surridge departed in March, saying: “I have given much consideration to this decision and reached the conclusion that the mission I have signed on has changed and enters a new direction with a new perspective.” In July, Dubai-based property developer Damac had its bid to buy the brand approved – but the brand’s next chapter remains a mystery. Philipp Plein has put a pause on his over-the-top shows, opting instead for an in-store event, while this season will be Fendi’s (above) first womenswear collection without Karl Lagerfeld’s input (12:30pm, September 19). The legendary designer passed away days before the February show.
A handful of new names are making their MFW debuts this season, including MRZ by Simona Marziali (5:30pm, September 19); Antwerp Royal Academy of Fine Arts master graduate Shuting Qiu (11:30, September 22) and Copenhagen Fashion Week darling Nynne Kunde (5:30pm, September 21).
Making the move from New York is German brand Boss as it looks to strengthen its ties in the European markets (10:30am, September 22). Drome by Marianna Rosati (above) joins from Paris Fashion Week (9:30am, September 22). London’s Peter Pilotto is decamping to Milan also — the first time since the brand’s inception in 2007 — swapping London’s cocktail clubs for the historic Teatro Manzoni (12:30pm, September 18).
Vogue Italia’s fashion-talent scouting project ‘Vogue Talents’ is celebrating its 10th year. The multimedia digital platform has unearthed talented fashion creatives from across the world and the initiative is now synonymous with representing social trends from the past decade: sustainability, inclusivity in beauty, gender fluidity and feminism, to name a few.
“It’s borderless and barrier-free,” says Sara Sozzani Maino, head of Vogue Talents and deputy editor-in-chief of special fashion projects at Vogue Italia. “It searches the world because there’s talent everywhere. Our mission is to act responsibly and set an example that the world needs to change.” Vogue Italia will mark the milestone with a retrospective exhibition on September 20 to 21, held at the Palazzo Cusani, Brera.
Meanwhile, Vogue Japan is celebrating its 20th birthday with a Kawaii-themed party in partnership with Bulgari, hosted by creative director-at-large Anna Dello Russo (above) and editor-in-chief Mitsuko Watanabe on September 18.
And rounding off proceedings with a focus on sustainability is the third edition of the Green Carpet Fashion Awards, which will close the week at La Scala Theater on September 22 and will be hosted by Livia Firth, creative director of Eco-Age, and Carlo Capasa, chairman of CNMI.
Victoria Beckham debuted her Spring 2020 collection during London Fashion Week; the new lineup showed a softer, more romantic side of the designer, who often sticks to stricter tailoring. As per usual, the whole Beckham clan was there in the front row to cheer her on, including husband David Beckham, along with their four children Brooklyn, Romeo, Cruz, and Harper. Post-show, the Beckhams then headed to a private dinner at Harry’s Bar to celebrate the designer, where Victoria and David pulled off an extremely chic his-and-hers suiting moment.
Walking into the party hand-in-hand, the Beckham’s proved they’re London’s hottest couple this week by coordinating their evening suits. Victoria chose an oversized blazer in polka dots, pairing it with a ruffled purple blouse—her new collection was heavy on the ruffles—and high-waisted burgundy trousers; finally adding a pair of discreet stiletto sandals gave the outfit a more elevated, going-out feel. David, meanwhile, chose a pale blue Dior double-breasted suit, designed by the couple’s close friend Kim Jones, and gave it a more casual finish with a simple white T-shirt and crisp high-top sneakers. Their complementary looks were polished and dressed-up, but undeniably effortless, too. That’s the Beckham style signature, after all.
- The global fashion research platform Lyst has published its latest ranking of the most important fashion brands online for the fourth quarter of 2018 and shows that luxury brands are dominating.
- Gucci, Balenciaga and Versace all have leading positions in the top 10.
- See the full list below.
Luxury fashion is having a moment of glory.
Lyst’s global fashion research platform released its latest ranking of the world’s top fashion brands for the fourth quarter of 2018, and luxury brands like Gucci, Balenciaga and Versace dominated it.
This confirms recent data from The NPD Group, which showed that sales of luxury fashion dollars, particularly in the US market, have increased by 50% in recent years, with substantial growth in sales of expensive clothing and footwear.
“The luxury market is evolving, new brands are attracting attention and online sales platforms are expanding the competitive landscape,” said Marshal Cohen, NPD Chief Industry Advisor, in a note accompanying the report.
To put the ranking together, Lyst analyzed the online shopping behaviour of over five million consumers a month, monitoring the way these shoppers search, “browse” and purchase fashion items from 12,000 designers and online stores. The report also takes into account Google’s search data and social media mentions and engagement statistics.
Find out which are the brands in the ranking below:
- Facebook / Burberry
Despite the skepticism towards its turnaround efforts, Lyst data shows that Burberry’s “renewed look” is having a good response among customers, the report says.
The brand has moved into a new management after longtime creative director Christopher Bailey left the company last year.
According to Lyst, Burberry has launched limited edition capsule collections, exclusively available on Instagram and on the Chinese messaging app WeChat . These have been exhausted in a few hours, the report said.
- A model wears a creation for Valentino’s autumn / winter 2019/20 collection presented in Paris, Wednesday 16 January 2019. AP Photo / Thibault Camus
Thanks to Gwyneth Paltrow , Valentino had a crackling start in the fourth quarter. The actress turned entrepreneur wore a Valentino dress for her wedding in September.
- Matches Fashion
Vetements continues to maintain its place in the top 10 list. He peaked in social media after Tilda Swinton wore a red Vetements dress for the Sitges Film Festival in Spain in October.
7. Stone Island
- Facebook / Stone Island
Stone Island reappeared in the top 10 after a six-month break.
Research for Stone Island products increased by 122% in the most recent quarter, according to Lyst, and the brand was mentioned more than 327,000 times on social media.
- Facebook / Versace
Versace came to the fore last year after being bought by Michael Kors, now Capri Holdings, for $ 2.12 billion.
Capri said it now plans to grow Versace revenues from around $ 808 million to $ 2 billion , expand its market from 200 to 300 stores and increase its range of shoes and accessories.
- Fendi Mania Capsule Collection launch event at Fendi on October 16, 2018 in Beverly Hills, California. Getty / Stefanie Keenan
In October, Fendi launched its Fendi Mania capsule collection, which presents a mashup of the Fendi / Fila logo,designed by an Instagram artist.
The launch events of this collection, which took place in nine cities, turned on social media, Lyst wrote, creating great interest for the entire brand.
- Facebook / Moncler
Not only did Moncler take fourth place on the list, but his luxury down jackets were also included in Lyst’s more fashionable product lists, both male and female.
- Rich Polk / Getty Images for GOAT
The ugly sneakers are still in vogue, which means that Balenciaga continues to shine.
The brand ended up in the limelight in December, after Michelle Obama wore a $ 4,000 thigh-high pair of Balenciaga boots for an event in New York to promote her new book.
- Facebook / Off-White
Off-White continues to be one of the most interesting brands on the Internet. Founded in 2012, this high-end treetwear label is the brainchild of Virgil Abloh, who is also artistic director of Louis Vuitton Man.
His Nike x Off-White The Ten series was the collaboration of the hottest 2018 sneakers, according to Lyst.
- Gucci handbags in a shop at Brookfield Place, Manhattan. Business Insider / Jessica Tyler
Gucci reigned supreme at the end of 2018 after occupying the first places in the ranking in previous parts of the year.
His recent success has been attributed to creative director Alessandro Michele, who has led the brand since 2015. Michele seems to have a deep awareness of what young people want, including bright and eclectic colors and eye-catching, flashy patterns, which come well on Instagram, wrote Business Insider in July after visiting one of its stores.
Between October and December, more than six million buyers searched for Gucci accessories. They have become among the most powerful products in fashion, according to Lyst.
Sara Dal Monte
OFFICIAL NYFW SCHEDULE / ALL SHOWS
(Plus year-round New York fashion events.)
This season, FWO is offering free registration for independent showcases. As with all registrations, this does not guarantee admission. You should still be registering with other producers, and be looking for ticketed opportunities (see below) that guarantee admission.
credit by Fashion Week Online
Sara Dal Monte
Your life is a wonderful gift but has a limited and precious time.
One day is made up of 86,400 seconds …
Imagine that there is a bank that credits the sum of 86,400 euros to your account every morning; does not keep your daily balance; every night you cancel any amount of your balance that was not used during the day.
What would you do? You would withdraw and spend everything to the last penny every day, of course! Well, each of us has an account in this bank …
his name? Time.
Every morning this bank credits you with 86400 seconds; every night this bank cancels and gives up as lost any amount of this credit that you have not invested in a good purpose.
This bank does not hold balances or allow transfers.
A new account opens every day.
Every night eliminates the balance of the day.
If you do not use the daily deposit, the loss is yours. You can’t back down, there are no credits for tomorrow’s deposit.
You must live in the present with today’s deposit.
Invest in this way to get the best in health, happiness and success: the clock continues on its way! Get the most out of every day.
To understand the value of a year, ask a student who has been rejected.
To understand the value of a month, ask a mother who gave birth prematurely.
To understand the value of a week, ask a girl who has a delay.
To understand the value of an hour, ask two lovers waiting to meet.
To understand the value of a minute, ask someone who has just missed the train.
To understand the value of a second, ask someone who has just avoided an accident.
To understand the value of a millionth of a second, ask an athlete who won the silver medal at the Olympics.
Give value to every moment you live and give it even more value if you can share it with a special person, just enough to devote your time and remember that time waits for no one …!
This is why the present exists …!
Sara Dal Monte
credit by sure-com Italy
HORTUS DELICIARUM IS SHOWN IN A NEW PARIS BOUTIQUE IN PLACE VENDÔME
Gucci’s bringing some sparkle to Paris’s 1st arrondissement with the brand’s first foray into the world of high jewelry.
The new Hortus Deliciarum line, which is influenced by the colorful and multi-faceted visions of Alessandro Michele, contains over 200 pieces (many of them one-of-a-kind). The collection’s inspiration stems from interpretations surrounding the mythical gardens of Eden, Arcadia, and Xanadu, while also drawing from the organic hues and symbolism of nature.
Three primary themes guide the narrative of Hortus Deliciarum: eternal love, the animal kingdom, and solitaires. Tiger, lion, and Ouroboros serpent iconography make appearances alongside pink and blue sapphires, white diamonds, yellow beryls, mandarin garnets, honey-colored topaz, pearlescent opals, and glittering aquamarines. According to Michele, the gemstones are purposefully mismatched in honor of the spirit of imperfection, therefore creating a sense of “dis-cordant symmetry.” Gucci also pulled from a variety of opulent, historical artistic movements, such as Rococo, Baroque, and Georgian, to cultivate a sense of luxury and refinement in every brooch, necklace, and ring. The collection is an ode not only to Gucci’s rich history of imagery and ingenuity, but also Michele’s uninhibited maximalist aesthetic and inventiveness.
The line will be sold at a brand new 16 Place Vendôme location, which situates the boutique amongst some of the finest jewelry retailers in the world. The interior of the store exudes a muted, old-Hollywood sort of glam: dark-panelled wooden display cases are paired with luxurious, turquoise green satin upholstery, which allows the color palette of the jewels to speak for itself.
Along with creating the covetable collection of high jewelry, Gucci has committed itself to responsibly sourcing the gold it utilizes. Additionally, many of the materials used in Gucci’s collection are ethically sourced with the aid of initiatives such as the Kimberly Process and the Kering Responsible Gold Framework, which strive to combat corruption and inequality in the mineral mining industry, underscoring the fact that luxury doesn’t have to be at an environmental and social cost.
Gucci Hortus Deliciarum high jewelry is now available at the 16 Place Vendôme boutique.
THE FENDI SHOW
Silvia Venturini Fendi Location : Villa Reale A change of location for the Fendi Menswear 2020 Spring/Summer collection, marking the beginning of the post Karl Lagerfeld era. A new atmosphere with a show that takes place in the shadowy gardens of the Villa Reale. An outdoor show that revisits gardening uniform with elegance and in the DNA of the label. Collection: the collection is an ode to nature, the materials are light with cut-out, bucolic prints. Silvia Venturini Fendi chose to invite the Italian director Luca Guadagnino this season, who collaborated on the graphics of the prints and also on the music and the setting of the show. The clothes are decorated with multiple removable pockets. The trousers are split at the ankle. A functional wardrobe that sparingly combines a sartorial spirit and workwear. We see the craftsmanship of the Roman label through plaited leather sweaters lined with fur. The colour palette is soft and soothing, composed of shades of green, chestnut, beige and khakis… We find emblematic Péquin stripes, but also stylized flowers on cotton or silk shirts, on overcoats and on featherweight parkas. The jacket combines with Bermuda shorts for a chic and casual look. Long tunics with graphic patterns evoke a summer atmosphere and Luca Guadagnino’s childhood memories in Ethiopia. Note: the shoes made in collaboration with Moonstar, the woven raffia sunhat with FF imprinted and the large transparent nylon shopping bags, or the iconic Peekaboo or baguette bag remade in the spirit of collection, braided leather.. Featuring interviews with Silvia Venturini Fendi, Luca Guadagnino and Serge Brunschwing. Silvia Venturini Fendi: I wanted to recapture a sense of harmony, the same harmony that is given to me through nature. Personally, I am lucky to have a house in the countryside where I go whenever I have the time. One of my passions is gardening, growing my vegetable garden and roses. I asked Luca Gaudagnino to be my guest artist and therefore we really wanted to transport you to a dream or even a film and I think it is a beautiful place. Luca Guadagnino: The civilisation of gardening, the uniforms and Japan, all these elements sprung very quickly and simply between her and I. We then gave each other different ideas and references, from Bruce Chatwin to Ryūichi Sakamoto, to the world of uniform in the Japanese gardening culture. Serge Brunschwing : You have seen that it is amazing. Everything that the Fendi ateliers are capable of making and composing, small pieces of silk and fur. Put it all together and it is incredibly beautiful. We see a piece of work between two artists, Silvia and Luca, who know each other very well, who get along wonderfully, who composed together in this garden and this ode to nature. Show music (Only for use in context of the show, covered by the right to information)
“I am all about championing this new era of designers becoming the new rock stars,” wrote Virgil Abloh on the blog The Brilliance in 2007. Fast-forward a decade and Abloh is exactly that. The American designer has risen from a Chicago kid obsessed with fashion, art, design, and culture to the artistic director of Louis Vuitton’s menswear operation.
As Abloh prepares to take the reins at one of fashion’s most iconic brands, we’re looking back on his career trajectory, from onetime Fendi intern to Kanye West collaborator to Off-White founder and collaborator nonpareil.
Abloh was born on September 30 outside of Chicago. He and his sister are raised in nearby Rockford, by Ghanaian immigrant parents. Abloh attends the Boylan Catholic High School—official colors green and white—and graduates in 1998. His mother is a seamstress and teaches him the tricks of her trade.
Abloh completes his undergraduate degree in civil engineering at the University of Wisconsin–Madison. (In 2015, he would return to design commemorative tees for the university.) Rumor has it that on the day of his graduation, he skips his final critique to take a meeting with Kanye West’s then-manager John Monopoly. West and Abloh begin officially working together soon after.
Abloh completes his master’s degree in architecture from the Illinois Institute of Technology. During his time at IIT, a Rem Koolhaas building is completed, which Abloh says, “piqued my interest and opened my gateway into fashion.”
Abloh and West become interns at Fendi in Rome. Louis Vuitton CEO Michael Burke recently told The New York Times, “I was really impressed with how [Abloh and West] brought a whole new vibe to the studio and were disruptive in the best way. Virgil could create a metaphor and a new vocabulary to describe something as old-school as Fendi. I have been following his career ever since.”
Abloh and West, along with a crew of famous friends, make the rounds at Paris Fashion Week, turning heads in the process. They’re photographed by Tommy Ton for Style.com outside of the Comme des Garçons show in what becomes a widely circulated pic. Abloh tells W magazine, “We were a generation that was interested in fashion and weren’t supposed to be there. We saw this as our chance to participate and make current culture. In a lot of ways, it felt like we were bringing more excitement than the industry was.”
Abloh officially assumes the role of creative director at Donda, West’s creative agency.
Abloh art directs the album Watch the Throne by Jay-Z and West, an achievement that earns him a Grammy nomination. The album cover is designed by Riccardo Tisci, then the creative director of Givenchy, a role Abloh was rumored to be up for after Tisci’s departure in 2017.
Abloh launches his first brand, Pyrex Vision, in New York. He purchased deadstock Ralph Lauren flannel shirts for $40 each, and screen printed them with the word Pyrex and the number 23, an homage to his childhood hero, Michael Jordan. They sell for $550 each.
Abloh shutters Pyrex and founds Off-White, a multi-platform creative endeavor based in Milan. Its main medium is fashion. At Off-White, he combines ideas of streetwear, luxury, art, music, and travel, defining the brand simply as, “the gray area between black and white as the color Off-White.” From the get-go, hovering quotation marks become Abloh’s signature.
Abloh launches womenswear for Off-White and begins showing his men’s and women’s collections during Paris Fashion Week.
Abloh’s womenswear operation gains steam when Beyoncé wears a palm-print sweatshirt with the word Nebraska on it, an homage to Raf Simons’s Fall 2002 Virginia Creepers collection, in Nicki Minaj’s video for “Feeling Myself.” That same year, Off-White is named a finalist for the LVMH Prize. He loses the grand prize and special prize to Marques’Almeida and Jacquemus, respectively.
Abloh opens his first concept store in the Aoyama area of Tokyo. The store features a watercooler with Off-White branded cups that visitors take for free and resell on the secondary market.
Abloh debuts his Grey Area furniture collection in Milan, his first furniture venture under the Off-White brand. It features iron grid chairs, benches, and tables with leather cushions and Carrara marble tops.
Even with the announcement of a collaborative exhibition with Takashi Murakami opening at Gagosian; the release of his first song; the opening of his New York store; the British Fashion Award for Urban Luxe Brand; and collaborations with Warby Parker, Jacob the Jeweler, and Jimmy Choo, the biggest news for Abloh in 2017 is The Ten, his sneaker partnership with Nike. Abloh re-creates 10 of Nike’s iconic silhouettes in a work-in-progress style, each adorned with a safety tag around the laces. The limited release leaves the sneaker market hungry for more, and Abloh hosts panels and workshops with Nike and additional releases throughout the year.
Abloh is named the artistic director of Louis Vuitton’s menswear collections, stepping into the role vacated by his friend and mentor Kim Jones. “It is an honor for me to accept this position. I find the heritage and creative integrity of the house are key inspirations and will look to reference them both while drawing parallels to modern times,” he says in a statement.
This summer, he will perform at Lollapalooza.
Virgil Alboh’s artworks will be the subject of an exhibition at the Museum of Contemporary Art in Chicago, and his Ikea collaboration will be released through the brand’s international stores.
“I have read this and I felt inside of me these concepts, the judgment brakes the evolutionary growth”.
We are beings in continuous becoming. Ours is a journey, we are not stuck at a station but in a continuous path, in which each stop represents a change of identity given by a new experience.
Our mind is constantly changing because it is constantly maturing. For this reason it is useless to fix oneself on the judgment of others or on ours, it only makes us static. Everything changes, nobody can ever stop the evolutionary path of sentient being that sees the goal and not the intermediate stages.
Fixing oneself on the judgment of others, means letting oneself be imprisoned by a single character that we have in mind, which making us static, immersed in a stagnant energy slime.
The transmutation of being is continuous, there are many possibilities dormant within us. Endless flowers to blossom, new mental patterns. How billions of neurons change our mind every day. Every day we are new beings.
“We are not a small tree, but a forest of possibilities” …
“The fashion instinct for red: It’s special . . . it’s a matter of temperament, looks, or both . . . ,” noted Vogue in 1963. A celebratory, look-at-me color, red was historically associated with passion, privilege, and power. Louis XIV, for example, famously wore scarlet heels and enacted sumptuary laws preventing those not in royal favor from following suit. Over time, the bold hue became linked to the festive holiday season via a certain cheery fellow with a beard “as white as the snow” and a suit as red as a . . . Coca-Cola label? Speaking to NPR, Arielle Eckstut, coauthor of The Secret Language of Color, explained that in 1931 the beverage company commissioned an illustrator “to create a Santa Claus” for promotional purposes. The artist drew one dressed in scarlet and with a physique that aligned with Clement Clarke Moore’s depiction of the “right jolly old elf” in his famous 1823 poem A Visit From St. Nicholas, which is now better known as The Night Before Christmas.
Combine red with velvet, a fabric with snob appeal (just look at Medici portraits or Francisco de Goya’s famous “Red Boy”), and you’ve got a winning, and upscale, combination that rises to the occasion. Like the cake that borrows its name, red velvet is a tried-and-true recipe for holiday dressing. The proof is in the pages of Vogue. Here, we track the trend as it was addressed by designers as diverse as Cristóbal Balenciaga and Marc Jacobs.
The temporary absence of a Gucci show – which will be presented in Paris – opens the door to a renewed Milanese fashion week, which includes special events of important residences and activities as the most anticipated shows in the city.
Moncler unveiled the second chapter of his Genius initiative on Wednesday, September 19th. The showcase is a novelty for Moncler, which debuted in its last direction in a special event before the Milanese shows, bringing together several international designers to create eight capsule collections in collaboration with the brand. Let’s see if you have a chance to see if Pierpaolo Piccioli, Craig Green, Simone Rocha, Hiroshi Fujiwara, Palm Angels and Kei Ninomiya – whose Moncler collections are falling after the other – will return for a renewed stint.
Gucci did not perform in Milan. Alessandro Michele brought the circus to the streets, presenting the first Monday in Paris. But he has no intention of renouncing the first day of the Milan program, which traditionally developed Gucci. Instead of the show, in collaboration with The Michael Clark Company. The dancer and choreographer set up a dance show for the evening, followed by Gucci with the club boys gathered in London in Milan. Clark has already participated in the short film by Gucci The Performers: Act VI for GQ .
Prada has found its new rhythm, compared to three percent last year. “Today the results of this transformation are visible and supported by many positive signs of the market,” declared the managing director Patrizio Bertelli in a statement. “We are constantly working to remodel the Prada Group”.
TEXAN BOOTS THIS FW18/19
This winter we will see the return of the legendary Texan boots. The Texan mood makes you feel strong and unconventional, after having crossed the catwalks of the whole planet and being reproposed by the biggest fashion houses, now they are ready to become the cult object for many fashion victims.
The model is the Calvin Klein 2015 W39NYC , which Raf Simons offers in a super American version with a metal-reinforced toe and a flaming red, which is not as hot as it is. But it is not the only one. The Western style version boots are the real trend of the moment and are perfect already now, in this middle season, without having to wait for the beginning of spring. Hard and pure, like the most classic texan boots, but also revised and corrected, ready to be transformed into sabot, as we have seen them from Each X Other, Maison Margiela or Acne Studios, in a contamination of mood and unpublished and unexpected genres. This year, then, they wear everything: with jeans, but also with long dresses and evening dresses or with sporty dress (as we saw from Calvin Klein) for remix looks worthy of an it girl.
Discover the most beautiful models of Texan boots seen on the runways fashion shows and begin to imagine them with your next looks for the next season.
SUPREME WILL REND THE LOOK AT THE NEW YORK POST
The Supreme phenomenon also involves publishing. A few days ago, the American brand inaugurated an unprecedented partnership with The New York Post, creating a special cover with the distinctive red logo. The unusual collaboration amazed the American media given the support that the conservative newspaper has always dedicated to Donald Trump, while the streetwear brand has donated revenues from sales of some products to families damaged by the president’s anti-immigration policies.
Thanks to the echo on social networks, the newspaper number, on sale at $ 1.50, was an immediate success. There was no lack of traditional online re-sellers, on eBay some copies cost 20 dollars. The collaboration with The New York Times recalls that signed by Supreme with the transport company NyctSubway and confirms the talent in being able to talk about themselves, on and offline.
In the years to come the company Bottega Martinese grows rapidly and specializes in outerwear: for men, jackets, coats, raincoats for women jackets, jackets, coats.
The items produced in series with the quality of the artisan tailoring soon conquered the local clientele, the peninsula and many foreign countries fascinated by the Made in Italy.
With Bottega Martinese, the outerwear, man or woman, the highest quality levels, thanks to meticulous workmanship, accurate finishing, the use of refined fabrics and new colors. The lines of the products are clean and essential, but just as refined and elegant.
Read more: http://www.bottegamartinese1974.com/company/
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The 94th Edition of Pitti Uomo, the international men’s fashion event which dictated the trends of the Spring-Summer 2019 season, has just come to an end. The opening ceremony, in the Salone dei Cinquecento at Palazzo Vecchio, saw the first official involvement of new Minister of Cultural Heritage and Tourism Alberto Bonisoli, who reiterated the importance of fashion for Italian culture and Florence. 1240 brands, of which 561 foreign (45% of the total), and over 20,000 buyers took part to the event. Important numbers, which define, even more so, the reputation and progress of this international trade fair.
The theme of this edition was P:O:P: Pitti Optical Power, a visual and virtual celebration of colour, with endless games of stripes throughout the square of the Fortress and in every stand, a colourful world that focused on young people, start-ups and emerging industries. Great attention was paid to avant-garde styles and cutting-edge designers, without forgetting the excellence of the new classic companies and the brands that revisit the modernity of sportswear.
There is a hair accessory that Pinterest loves in a particular way: the scarf. And you will immediately have eyes in your heart, because for the warm season it seems the complement of which your locks need. It gives you a chic but casual air, you can manage it as you prefer, turning it into a hair band, a bandana or a bow for your ponytail. Or if you love braids, it will be the “lock” to fit between the others.
The scarf is versatile, and, depending on your imagination, you can combine it with any style. There is only one small problem, but with our advice you can easily get around it. The fabric of which it is made, like silk, often tends to slip easily, especially if you have long, thin hair. If this is your problem, apply styling products that thicken and create more friction to keep your accessory in place.
To give you further push, know that since 2018 the designers have re-fallen in love and on the catwalks, from Dolce & Gabbana to Armani, have brought him back into fashion, creating an afro, hippy look inspired by the ’50s mood. And for the stars too, it has been a must-have ever-present beauty. What are you waiting for to experience it too? Here are some ideas to understand how to bring it and adapt it to your spring summer style.
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Three great Italian fashion houses, three companies that base their roots in Tuscany, Roberto Cavalli, Gucci, Ermanno Scervino, are the three-axis that unleashes Pitti Uomo n. 94 the Florentine menswear show scheduled in Florence from 12 to 15 June, with 1,240 brands at Fortezza da Basso, 561 of which are foreign, which will be inaugurated at Palazzo Vecchio by the new Minister of Cultural Heritage Alberto Bonisoli.
Read the man trends here
At the opening of Pitti on 12 June Gucci celebrates the opening of two new rooms in the Gallery curated by Maria Luisa Frisa, inside the Gucci Garden created by the creative director of the maison Alessandro Michele in the historic Palazzo della Mercanzia, in Piazza della Signoria. In the Gucci Garden boutique will be presented new products in a single edition with the illustrations of an artist in his debut in collaboration with Gucci. Roberto Cavalli, guest star of this edition parades on June 13 marking the return of the brand in his city of origin. The new men’s collection is signed by Paul Surridge, new creative director of all the lines of the group, which since 2015 is 90% owned by the investment fund Clessidra Sgr. Ermanno Scervino celebrates the opening of the new boutique in Via Strozzi and on June 14th participates in the presentation of the Scervino -Fondazione Zeffirelli project, for which the students of Istituto Marangoni interpreted 12 outfits of the Domata Bisbetica. Giorgio Armani also inaugurates a boutique in via de ‘Tornabuoni.
On June 13th Cos presents Soma, a capsule based on comfort and design. For the launch, a special event will animate an evocative place in the city with the participation of the British choreographer Wayne McGregor. Birkenstock also chooses June 13 for its event in the Torrigiani Garden. On the platform the mood of the collection and music signed by Michel Gaubert. The Pitti Immagine Discovery Foundation presents Fanatic Feelings – Fashion Plays Football, a multimedia exhibition curated by Markus Ebner, founder of the magazines Achtung Mode and Sepp Football Fashion and the art critic Francesco Bonami, which highlights the attraction that the world of football has on fashion and male imagery. The exhibition held until 22 July, is visited in the complex of Santa Maria Novella.
The London-based designer Craig Green, a Pitti 94 menswear guest, will present his collection on June 14th. In its proposals emerge the ability to innovate the codes of menswear without losing sight of the dynamics of the market. A style that mixes workwear influences and futuristic volumes, sculptural silhouettes and functional aspects. The Japanese designer Fumito Ganryu, Pitti project, after the experience in the group Comme des Garcons presents on June 13 in Florence his independent label with an event. Pitti’s Guest Nation is Georgia on stage at the Spazio Carra in Fortezza, thanks to the support of Lelp Enterprise Georgia, the agency headed by the Georgian Ministry of Economy. The brands are: Aznauri, Anuka Keburia, Damian Gorge, Situationist, Tatuna Nikolaishvili, Vaska.
Two birthdays at Pitti: Herno celebrates 70 years with the Library in the former Leopolda Station; Lardini celebrates 40 of activities with an event at Fortezza. On 13th June, at Pitti, there will also be Moncler Genius 7 Fragment Hiroshi Fujiwara, the latter present. Federico Curradi returns to Florence on June 14 to present the homonymous collection with an installation-event in the garden of a noble palace. Emilio Pucci and Bonaveri meet to stage their creative skills. At Polveriera, Sease, a brand of Giacomo and Franco Loro Piana, introduces a concept on male passions. Nick Wooster X Paul & Shark is the capsule that tells the Italian brand seen by the American designer. The new line of Iceberg, Ice Play, made its debut with the world of street couture. On the occasion of the 80th anniversary of Candiani Denim, a special co-lab with the Los Angeles brand Atelier & Repairs, from which a 100% sustainable denim based capsule is born.
THE ROYAL WEDDING
Prince Harry and Meghan Markle have been proclaimed husband and wife after pledging their love to one another at a fairytale wedding at Windsor Castle. After a service watched by an estimated global TV audience of 1.9billion, the new Duke and Duchess of Sussex emerged from the historic church set in the grounds of St George’s Chapel, beaming with delight.
Having walked his now daughter-in-law down the aisle, Prince Charles reduced guests to tears at the afternoon reception with a speech about his ‘darling old Harry’.They later left for the evening reception in ultimate style – taking a silver blue Jaguar E-Type Concept Zero, which was originally manufactured in 1968 and has since been converted to electric power to Frogmore House in Windsor.
The car’s number plate bore the date of the wedding – E190518 – and Prince Harry proved he was the perfect gentleman as he opened the door of a vintage car to let his bride step in, as he drove her to their private evening reception in a scene akin to a James Bond film.
Earlier, at the top of the vast West Steps, where the West Door was decorated with hundreds of cream and white flowers and green foliage, Harry and his bride stopped and kissed to the delight of cheering onlookers. An estimated more than 100,000 well-wishers lined the streets of Windsor to cheer the newlyweds as they started their married life with a tour in an open-topped Ascot Landau carriage.
The Queen’s grandson and the American former actress, who is now an HRH and a member of the British royal family, said their vows in front of 600 guests including the monarch and more than 30 members of the Royal family. Ms Markle wore a stunning elegant white gown – with a white veil and boat neck – was created by British designer Clare Waight Keller, the first female Artistic Director at French fashion house Givenchy. Prince Harry and his best man the Duke of Cambridge are both wearing the frockcoat uniform of the Blues and Royals.
As they met at the altar, Prince Harry told his bride “you look amazing”, to which Meghan replied “thank you”. The couple tenderly held hands and exchanged smiles during the wedding ceremony.
Ms Markle’s delicate veil was five metres (16ft) long and made from silk tulle, with a trim of hand-embroidered flowers in silk threads, with two of her page boys carrying the ends as she made her way up the steps. Her hair was styled in an up do and she wore the glittering Queen Mary’s Diamond Bandeau tiara, loaned to her by the Queen. The pair set off on an open-top carriage ride through the streets of Windsor where an estimated more than 100,000 well-wishers had descended on the town for the royal nuptials.
As they paused on the steps, a smiling Ms Markle looked up at her new husband and asked: “Do we kiss?” Harry replied with a discreet: “Yeah.” The new Duke and Duchess travelled in the Ascot Landau waving to the thousands of royal fans lining the streets and up the Long Walk, with Ms Markle exclaiming “wow” at their rapturous welcome.As the horse-drawn carriage returned to Windsor Castle ready for a lunchtime reception in the magnificent St George’s Hall, Prince Harry quipped: “I’m ready for a drink now.”
Ahost of stars were invited to join the happy couple in the chapel including US chat show queen Oprah Winfrey, tennis champion Serena Williams, actor George Clooney and his barrister wife Amal Clooney, Sir Elton John, David and Victoria Beckham and actor Idris Elba. Prince Harry and Ms Markle gazed into each other’s eyes as they exchanged vows. The Duke of Cambridge, in his role as best man, stepped forward to deliver the rings, with the couple smiling as they placed the bands on each other’s hands.
Unlike his brother, Prince Harry has chosen to wear a wedding ring.
Loud cheers could be heard from outside St George’s Chapel as the Archbishop of Canterbury proclaimed the couple husband and wife. Prince George and Princess Charlotte did not follow directly behind Harry and Meghan as they made their way back up the aisle, like the other bridesmaids and page boys.
Instead, the youngsters held the hand of their parents the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge as they made their way out of the chapel. Ms Markle has become the first mixed race person in modern history to marry a British senior royal. She found fame in the US legal drama Suits playing the character Rachel Zane, and a number of her former co-stars, including Patrick J Adams and Gabriel Macht, were there for her big day.
The hairstyles, the eyeshadows are dressed in natural shades and the lips become (almost) the object of art. Almost to recall the desire of that romantic kiss that exchange Jean-Paul Belmondo and Anna Karina in the film The bandit of the 11 by Jean-Luc Godard, manifesto of the 71st edition of the Cannes Film Festival.
The beauty looks on the Croisette are confirmed, already from the early evening, a series of strokes of class that the madness “sacred and profane” of the Met Gala 2018 react by giving us the fairy tale of impeccable make-up and elegant collections.
In short, a real taste lesson to the parisienne with that touch of Hollywood style that makes this red carpet one of the most admired of the year, always full of beautiful inspirations: «The red carpet will be invaded by apparently unstructured, unstructured hairstyles: like beach waves, low bun, ponytails. A big trend will also be the fringe: long, chic, short, we’ll see it everywhere “, tells us live from Cannes Stéphane Lancien, International Hairstylist of L’Oréal Paris.
While a few minutes from the start of the red carpet Simone Belli, National Makeup Artist L’Oréal Paris reveals what the trend make-up will be: «I predict smokey eyes with blue, red or purple notes. Obviously you will not give up even the less colored but always rather intriguing shades like those of bronze and black. The lips will certainly be present, in all their sensuality and elegance in the bright tones of red. And then the finish glow, an indelible form of many looks because it gives three-dimensionality and a very glamorous look. The secret to increasing its effect? Mix warm and cold tones on temples because it multiplies the particularity of the result making it easier to wear and with more facets ».
So, two weeks of film festival, with 21 films in competition, presided over by a jury of beautiful including Australian actress Cate Blanchett , president of the Official Selection, who reconfirms already from the first photocall her sophisticated blond blonde lob combined with a complexion porcelain, Kristen Stewart with her unmistakable rock tuft and Léa Seydoux who will hardly betray her beloved red lipstick.
To move the Croisette, in addition to a river of cinephiles, will be the arrival of national and international actors and actresses such as Penelope Cruz accompanied by her husband Javier Bardem, Emilia Clarke, Valeria Golino, Alba Rohrwacher, Riccardo Scamarcio, Annabelle Belmondo, Georgia May Jagger and many other tops and socialites. So, ready for this cine-beauty marathon?
MET Heavenly Bodies, Fashion and the Catholic Imagination , on the intertwining of fashion and Catholicism
The theme of this edition, inspired by the exhibition Heavenly Bodies: Fashion and the Catholic Imagination , on the intertwining of fashion and Catholicism, and most of the guests – with the Hollywood gothic almost complete – took it literally. Competition of daring between Rihanna , in the paprika version, Katy Perry decorated by an angel and Sarah Jessica Parker , complete with a tabernacle on her head. The singer (pictured), who this year was chosen by Anna Wintour as one of the organizers of the Met Gala , did not make any compromises, along with John Galliano and the style office of Maison Margiela he decided to present himself with an ecclesiastical outfit, provocative in the lengths (with corset and minidress half-covered by a long skirt), sumptuous in decorations, with precious stones and jewels, and a real papal tiara, the headgear used by the Popes starting from Middle Ages until the 20th century. The flashes of the photographers were however able to indulge also with the clerical outfits of Madonna (in the black gothic style dress of Jean Paul Gaultier with a crown just from Madonna), Sarah Jessica Parker (with baroque dress and long train of Dolce & Gabbana and a votive tabernacle worn on long hair), Cardi B , squeezed into a long Moschino dress with a celestial crown, and Katy Perry, theatrical in her Versace minidress with spectacular feathered wings. The singer Ariana Grande has even reproduced on the Vera Wang signed the Last Judgment of Michelangelo , while the trio Alessandro Michele , Lana del Rey and Jared Leto opted for three white and blue Gucci looks with decorations that recalled liturgical vestments. Filed the worldly red carpet hangover, now the eyes are on the show, which will open to the public on May 10: edited by Andrew Bolton, required years of preparation, even for long negotiations with the Vatican, which has lent some works. The main sponsors are the spouses Schwarzman of New York ( Stephen Allen Schwarzman is the co-founder and CEO of Blackstone) , very devoted to Pope Francis .
Sara Dal Monte
Princess dresses, extraordinary volumes and precious embroideries: those seen in Paris are dreamy looks. Which we will see wearing the stars in the next red carpet.
The week of Haute Couture in Paris closes, like any self-respecting Fashion Week, dictates the trends of the next season: those of luxury squared, and that, surely, we will see worn by the stars on the next Oscar night. The Haute Couture Spring Summer 2018 fashion shows have made us dream with princess dresses, extraordinary volumes and waterfalls of rhinestones. But there are several common thread that the choices of the couturier have in common.
Starting from the feathers, an inevitable detail in any collection. Totalizing by Elie Saab who uses them from head to toe, they are spectacular on Valentino’s impalpable hats. Maxi and colored, they make the effect of gaudy clouds that follow the models step by step.
Even the frills conquer the designers and from Giambattista Valli is a real triumph of rouches. Pastel tulle, layered endlessly, cover drafts, bodices and puffed sleeves to catapult us into a real fairy tale.
Maxi volumes by Alexandre Vauthier, Alexis Mabille and Stephane Rolland, whose satin cloaks resemble those of the Pontormo and Rosso Fiorentino paintings.
Sara Dal Monte
Heat the engines. 20 – 26 February 2018. The Milan Fashion Week Fall Winter 2018 2019 is about to begin and is announced to say the least rumbling, full of events, events and news not to be missed, not only for insiders, press, buyers and fashion people in I come from all over the world, but also for those who live in Milan every day.
With over 64 fashion shows, 92 presentations and 18 events on the calendar the February 2018 fashion week will be more lively than ever. To confirm the strength and strength of our fashion system there are the extremely comforting data of the Italian National Chamber of Fashion: the turnover of the Italian fashion industry in 2017 recorded a + 2.5% compared to 2016 and an increase in exports 4.3%, thus tracing growth. In short, the economic trends open the way for a certainly positive 2018 and a February in style. And this edition will demonstrate it with its many novelties.
Of course, among the guest stars on the front row of the Milan fashion shows there will be no Chiara Ferragni (who from her IG stories announced her decision to stay in Los Angeles to prepare for almost imminent birth) and we will probably no longer see “human walls” of street style photographers willing to block the city and tilt the traffic while photographing it (see above as it happened in September 2017 before the Fendi Spring Summer 2018 fashion show) but the show must go on. And do not worry! Do not miss it girl, model, celeb, new faces and influencers (true or aspiring) ready to contend for flash, photographic objectives and hashtag top trending: social side now inalienable for a week that will have its fulcrum and sacred focus in fashion Made in Italy.
Yes, this year more than ever, it will be our fashion to be the true protagonist of Milan Fashion Week: among the most important events of this Milan fashion week designed for the whole public (and not only for insiders) in fact, there is the ITALIANA exhibition. Italy seen in fashion from 1971-2001 with which the Italian National Chamber of Fashion, on the occasion of its sixtieth anniversary, celebrates the importance and value of Italian fashion. But not only! There are many new entries for the first time on the calendar: starting with Moncler, which is entrusted with the official opening of MMD on February 20 (find out more in the gallery), up to Tommy Hilfiger, who chose Milan as fourth stage of his #TOMMYNOW, passing the Italian Francesca Liberatore who after years on the runways of the New York Fashion Week “back” at home. Together with her, supported by CNMI, Christian Pellizzari, Lucio Vanotti and Angel Chen just to name a few to witness the attention of Camera Moda towards young talents. And then the fashion hub market dedicated to emerging designers including Giannico and the duo revealing Archivio, to keep an eye on, or the inclusive fashion show (scheduled for February 27th and open to the public) and much more. Like the highly anticipated event by Anna Dello Russo of 24 February on the occasion of the publication of the book published by Phaidon AdR Book: Beyond Fashion: an evening in which Christie’s will auction 30 total looks from Anna’s personal archive followed by a dinner hosted by Swarovski and a party that promises to be the most exuberant and sparkling ever!
Do you want to know every news of this Milan Fashion Week and be updated on what will happen from 20 to 26 February 2018? Everything you need to know in this gallery, to experience the fashion week as a real fashion insider. Are you ready?
Sara Dal Monte
The mystery designer has been identified.
Tom Ford will take the final spot on the men’s portion of the New York Fashion Week calendar next month with a runway show on Feb. 6. The show will be held at 8 p.m. at the Park Avenue Armory, immediately following Joseph Abboud at 7 p.m.
Although Ford has shown his men’s wear in New York in the past, this will mark the first time the designer has shown his men’s collection alone during New York Fashion Week: Men’s. His most recent New York show was in September of 2017 when he kicked off New York Fashion Week with a women’s show at the Armory. His spring 2018 men’s line was shown in Milan.
Last month, the Council of Fashion Designers of America said that it had pushed back the dates of New York Fashion Week: Men’s slightly to Feb. 5 through Feb. 7, immediately preceding the women’s shows that start on Feb. 8 — and creating one big 10-day dual-gender event. At the time, Mark Beckham, vice president of marketing for CFDA, hinted that another “big-name designer” was about to jump onto the men’s calendar, but it took until Monday for Ford to be identified as that designer.
Ford’s addition to the calendar will give a boost to the men’s portion of the week, which has been filled mainly with emerging brands. The big names that will be participating this time around will be Raf Simons, who will close the men’s portion of the calendar on Wednesday night Feb. 7, along with Abboud, Perry Ellis — which is returning to the calendar this season — and Hugo Boss.
Sara Dal Monte
The prix fixe lunch, which includes a starter and main courses like the Fifth Avenue salad, with Maine lobster, grapefruit and poppyseed dressing, and an olive-oil poached salmon, with caviar and smashed potatoes, costs $39.
With a nod to the long-heralded regality of the location, there is also a “Tiffany Tea” menu offering ($49), featuring teas by Bellocq, as well as a selection of finger sandwiches and bakery items. Individual sweets and warm beverages are also available, from an espresso ($5) to a slice of chocolate mousse cake ($12).
The café, outfitted with tables that can accommodate many different group sizes, is accentuated by heavy usage of the company’s classic robin’s-egg blue motif on everything from the walls to the plates. Only two blocks from the southern boundary of Central Park, the café has an excellent window view of the popular destination.
With many traditional retailers losing customers at their brick and mortar locations to online competitors, there has been an increased focus on cultivating experiences for shoppers. Tiffany’s recently opened a temporary concept store in Manhattan’s Rockefeller Center, with another location set to open in nearby Grand Central Terminal. Both stores will feature a selection of jewelry, home items and accessories.
According to Reed Krakoff, the chief artistic officer of Tiffany & Co., who led the redesign of the café and the adjoining home and accessories section, there was an emphasis on showcasing modern luxury. “The space is experimental and experiential – a window into the new Tiffany,” Mr. Krakoff said in a statement.
For generations of Hepburn fans, the outsized presence of the flagship store has allowed them to retrace her steps from the movie, but now they can truly have breakfast at Tiffany’s, 56 years after the film’s release.
Furs never miss the appeal of fashion shows, so I’m not an absolute novelty to see on the catwalk for the fall winter 2017 2018. The talk of a true return to fashion seems almost controversy as they rule sovereigns among the trends of cold season after year. Once again Fendi is an absolute champion, capable of decimating fur in a thousand variants. But beside him there is also Gareth Pugh who plays Gothic, for Gucci is total white. Whether ecological or natural fur (see mink fur), the imperative is to represent it with the innate class of those who want to bring forth primitive female instinctuality. A gentle, soft instinct, warm as a hug.
Fur, queen of coats, is also among the most controversial of every season. And on the one hand it continues to be a huge trend on the catwalks, on the other there are more and more brands that decide to marry the fur free philosophy (last in the order of arrival is Gucci) and to realize coats in synthetic fur and faux fur . The fashion trend of this Fall Winter 2017-2018, then, points to the colorful furs that seem to be the most funny coats of the moment. Starting with Miu Miu wearing a flamboyant and strictly ecological style footwear, coupled with maxi pendant hats for a cozy & crazy mood. Yes, this winter requires softness and much, so much color! Do you want to dare? From the bright green faux fur Giorgio Armani to the synthetic fur in orange version is the new black of Topshop Unique, passing through the inlaid fur coats seen from Missoni to the “vacuum effect” eco-design signed by Calvin Klein and the many proposals in pink , fucsia and surroundings, here are the ideas from the catwalks, also fur free, with which to decline the season’s trend in Autumn Winter 2017-2018.
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The New York fashion week runway shows registers a flight (to Paris), and echoed by raising the price of admission. Or rather, selling the ticket-invitation to fashion shows in September. The IMG , which specializes in organizing events, for years involved in the preparation of some fashion shows, launches “NYFW: The Experience”. The project, aimed at top clients, offers a package of experiences including the opportunity to attend the parades in premium seats, a custom tour behind the scenes Q & A with industry insiders, an opportunity to meet designers and models, visits to showroom, make-up service affiliated salons, styling services, gift bag and much more according to buyer demands. The phenomenon is a kind of legalization of the service offered by some touts who were starting to take foot especially online.
“It is an experience created to selected individuals who want to live close to the energy of the fashion week,” he told WWD Mark Shapiro , co-chief executive officer of WME / Img. “We have an incredible request, the fashion shows are the last mega-event marketing and historically the consumer has always been excluded, this service will give the opportunity to experience the parades to those who are not journalists or buyers,” explains the manager . Prices for personalized services are not available, but apparently the Big Apple continues to attract the attention of the fashion victim.
The announcement of ticket-invitation came at a critical time for New York, to the ever-growing light exodus of luxury brands. Just this week, the list of emigrants to Paris has become even more dense. At Proenza Schouler , Monique Lhuillier and Rodarte , present at the last Paris fashion couture week, it added Joseph Altuzarra who, along with Thom Browne , will march under the Eiffer Tower for ready to wear female September.
The American media have emphasized the phenomenon apocalyptic tones, from Nicole Phelps , director of online section Vogue Runway : “It is one of the most considered brand, the most influential of the calendar; New York has lost a good chunk of his new guard “.
He tried to throw water on the fire Steven Kolb , president and CEO of the Council of Fashion Designers of America. “There are four brands – told Fashionista – who decided to show in Paris for different reasons at different times, and each of them has taken this decision not because there were problems with the NYFW or something wrong with the NYFW, but because there was an opportunity in Paris. If you asked each of them think that would confirm that this is not a negative statement against New York, but the opportunity to show the collections in a different market. “
For now, compared to a loss of these names, the Big Apple boasts the return of Rihanna , who after two seasons in Paris, will bring its line Fenty Puma in New York.
Italian wine is one of the most difficult regions to get to know. Why? Well for one, the Italians use an esoteric wine labeling system, much like the French. But that’s not even the biggest problem in terms of familiarizing yourself with Italian wines. The hardest part is learning all the different grape varieties.
At the moment, there are about 350 official Italian wine varieties. There have been rumors that over 2,000 different Italian grapes exist, but this might be a bit of an exaggeration– something Italians do well.
See an easy to understand map of Italian wine regions and major wine varieties. Learn about the 20 Italian wine regions and which ones to try first when delving into Italian wines.
Photo by Jonathan Colon https://skatesphere.com/.
With the arrival of the beautiful season, there is the ideal time to discover the genuine flavors of Chianti’s lands. Tenuta Belvedere welcomes visitors to Wine Tour who want to make this wonderful tasting experience. Tenuta Belvedere is set on the beautiful Florentine hills of Chianti DOCG, a few kilometers from Florence, in the town of Rignano sull’Arno. For its guests, it organizes tastings in the company that represent a unique opportunity to enjoy excellent Tuscan vinification products. The wines of the Tenuta Belvedere wineries are born in accordance with the ancient wine tradition, landscape and peasant tradition. Love for nature is found in every taste of Chianti tasted.
Tenuta Belvedere has its roots in the troubled times of the fights between Guelphs and Ghibellines. For more than a century, a branch of the powerful Mozzi family, wealthy bankers who had the management of the Pontifical Treasury, retained the property… http://www.tenutabelvedere.it
Sara Dal Monte
If mini dresses aren’t your thing, get your hands on maxi dresses and take your style to new lengths. An all year round style staple for any girls wardrobe, it’s the perfect choice for chic everyday style and going out glamour. Go for an open-back, body-hugging style for your next night out look, or work it in a maxi dress, cut-out and metallic details perfect for those party season vibes. Let your legs do the talking with a sexy front split, or go for the cover-up and let your attitude to the talking. Add some heels and jewels to your basic block colours, or dress it down with some ankle boots and a killer coat for those casual feels. Whatever the weather, go maxi.
Sara Dal Monte Style
From cameramoda.com home page
Milan Fashion Week warms the engines. And brings home one day more than a calendar. This is a first concrete result, waiting to understand what the past week’s announcements will be about the super week of fashion, so that it is waiting for days for an official communication (a press conference) that clarifies on projects , Commitments, synergies and collaborations.
The September Prêt-à-Porter fashion shows, the women’s men’s calendar, for the first time after years, boast a real week (September 20-26). To confirm it is the official website of the National Chamber of Italian Fashion: no longer canons six but seven days that will see the succession of more and more parades together, including Bottega Veneta, Gucci, Antonio Marras and for the first time Etro, Missoni, Jil Sander and Trussardi. Always on Cnmi’s website it is learned that the seven-day formula will cover the next 2018 (21-27 February, 19-25 September) appointments.
The changes did not only affect Milan but also New York and, in particular, London. The relayship between the fashion week in the two cities will be somewhat interrupted for a day rather than running uncomfortably as usual. From September 7th to 13th, Nyfw and from 15 to 19, London’s Spring / Summer 2018 proposals will be on show. In the shadow of the Big Bang, Emporio Armani will join the company, which, in conjunction with the renovation of the store in Bond Street, It will be absent from Mfw as it did last autumn when it had chosen the Paris fashion week to celebrate the restyling of the store and Armani Caffè de Saint-Germain. Among the novelties are the first London show of the Nicopanda brand by Nicola Formichetti, the 20-year-old Roland Mouret and the arrival of Tommy Hilfiger who, after the Great Apple and Los Angeles, will travel to the British capital on September 19 with the formula ‘see Now-buy now ‘.
Plaits appeared on the spring/summer 2017 catwalks in every imaginable form – from skater-girl braided buns at Dior to bohemian skinny plaits at Roberto Cavalli and romantic rope braids at Valentino and everything in between. As Guido Palau told us backstage at Dior, “there’s a plait to suit everyone”. Pick your favourite style below.
Complement spring’s sporty silhouettes with extra-long twin braids – at Emporio Armani, extensions were woven into the plaits so that they reached down to models’ waists.
Guido Palau cited skater girls as one of the references for the plaited buns he created at Dior, worn scraped back from the face and offset by J’Adior earrings.
Bohemian girls will be immediately drawn to the laid-back styles at Roberto Cavalli – softly tousled waves with two skinny plaits at the front.
James Pecis’s cool-girl braids at Simone Rocha were complemented by dewy skin and baby-hair strands around the face, giving models a post-workout look somewhat less sweaty than the reality.
For the true romantic, Valentino’s extra-long loose plaits were fastened low at the nape of the neck, whilst stray strands of hair around the face made for a pretty, youthful look.
Forgetting the scene-stealing face flowers by Val Garland just for the moment, the plaits at Preen By Thornton Bregazzi were messy, haphazard and anything but preppy.
Archived beanie, abandoned Basque, hat you’ll want to wear this spring will (only) the baseball cap. He is the new hairstyle chosen by influencers and fashion editor to the latest fashion weeks in New York, London and Milan. Much more comfortable than a styling and much more cool of a new short haircut, the hat with a visor this Spring Summer 2017 PURE trend. But how to wear it in the routine of day-by-day avoiding the effect bad girl in high school? Try to match it to be business woman coats with shoulders 80s style Miroslava Duma, or look at the last trench + hoodie
On Sunday, February 12, Chianti Lovers Anteprima (Preview) is back once again to invite wine lovers to be among the first to sample 2016 Chianti not yet released on the market.
Representatives from over 100 estates will pour 500 types of wine. Due to the enormous success of the past two editions, this year’s event will be held at the Fortezza da Basso in order to guarantee the tasting of wines in a relaxing and pleasurable manner.
The fair offers a chance to familiarize with the quality and the characteristics of Chianti 2016 and the Chianti Riserva 2014 from the subzones of Chianti Rufina, Colli Fiorentini, Colli Aretini, Colli Senesi, Colline Pisane (the hills around Florence, Arezzo, Siena and Pisa) as well as six additional Tuscan denominations. Doors will be open for the public from 4 to 9 pm with €15 admission (accessibility at 9:30 am is limited to trade professionals and journalists).
Chianti Lovers Anteprima welcomes visitors who are passionate about wine but also those who wish to investigate the mysteries
involved and the excitement of evaluating them. It is a chance to experience the meanings of the intense ruby colors, or hints of fruit or spicy notes on the nose, or on the palate the nuances of wild berries, vanilla, chocolate, leather or tobacco with overall smooth tannins.
These expressions refer to just some of the unique aspects of Chianti and their terroir, a unique environmental context contributing to the variety of flavors that can be distinguished. Moving among the stands there is an atmosphere of enjoyment and of feeling special as producers who are eager to hear critiques of their wines greet guests.
The term “Preview” means that the Chianti wines are still very young but still are able to give an idea of their quality and mature characteristics. In the coming months the vintages will continue to develop fragrances and aromas to express the robust quintessence of the Sangiovese grape.
A new feature of this year’s Anteprima will be the presence of a number of diminutive red Ape three-wheelers, which have slipped down from the hills of Chianti. The farm vehicles will be buzzing through the streets and squares of central Florence starting on Tuesday from 9 am to 5 pm, offering tastings directly from wineries.
These Chianti carts will provide an opportunity to acquire discounts on the tickets for the Sunday event. Late afternoon on Friday, 10th February 10 there will be a special pre-dinner aperitif offered in one of the main piazzas in town.
Sara Dal Monte
PITTI91 GUEST DESIGNER
SIR PAUL SMITH LANCERA’ LA SUA NUOVA COLLEZIONE A-I 2017
LUCIO VANOTTI PRESENTERA’ LA SUA COLLEZIONE FW17
Menswear Guest Designer di Pitti Uomo 91 è Tim Coppens.
PALTÒ: Dai miti del cinema italiano alla nuova era del cappotto made in Italy
ISETAN–TOKYO: UNA SPECIALE INIZIATIVA DEDICATA AI BRAND DI PITTI UOMO
LES BENJAMINS: IL SOFISTICATO URBANWEAR DEL BRAND TURCO DEBUTTA A PITTI UOMO 91
JAPAN NEW WAVE: A TALK WITH SULVAM
Diplomato al Bunka Fashion College, con alle spalle una lunga collaborazione presso la maison Yohji Yamamoto, Fujita dà vita a sulvam nel 2014, guadagnando presto il consenso degli addetti ai lavori internazionali, dai top retailer alla stampa: si aggiudica il “Tokyo Fashion Award” nel 2014, è uno dei vincitori di “Who is on Next? Dubai” nel 2015 e presenta le proprie collezioni in occasione della Paris Fashion Week. Il suo stile fa tesoro della lezione del grande maestro giapponese, sviluppando un tailoring reinterpretato in chiave fortemente contemporanea, con un focus su tessuti di grande qualità e silhouette innovative.
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Wherever Barbara Palvin goes, there’s a little dust storm of controversy. Back when she was a 19-year-old Victoria’s Secret model, Selena Gomez fans blamed her for the singer’s breakup with Justin Bieber after Palvin was spotted with him at a Broadway show. Palvin has since been linked to One Direction’s Niall Horan; she’s been seen partying with Ed Sheeran; and, since the Cannes Film Festival in 2016, she’s been rumored to be dating Formula 1 racer Lewis Hamilton.
On the day I chatted with Palvin, who is at home in the countryside outside of Budapest, she laughed at her reputation as a man-eater—though the laughter was undercut by a clear note of annoyance. Days earlier, a British tabloid posted a picture of her sitting on a man’s lap at an event for the Italian lingerie brand Intimissimi. “That’s not Lewis Hamilton! Barbara Palvin gets cozy with mystery man,” the headline gasped.
“Normally, I don’t let it get to me,” she tells me. The “mystery man” was, in fact, her Italian agent, a dear friend. “I actually hang out with a lot of guys, and whenever I hang out with a famous guy, I’m instantly dating them. So I just laugh it off.” This time, though, Palvin said the comments crossed the line. “It was: ‘Of course she’s hitting on that guy. He’s probably old and rich.’ Oh bravo, Daily Mail !”
No, Palvin doesn’t need to date rich men to belong to the jet set. “It drives me a little crazy that people would think that.”